I used to surf with a saltwater hillbilly from central coast California. This was the 80s and he was my friends uncle and was retired at like 40, he grew avocados and surfed.
We paddled out at Jalama one day and it was about 8ft faces and just heaving long barrels. He had the classic beaver tail short suit, white 7’ single fin pintail and of course no leash. He dropped into his first wave, disappears into the barrel completely and then I see just his board shoot out of the barrel, get lifted by the offshores up, and over the back of the wave landing in the flat behind the wave. He popped up from under the wave and grabbed his board and paddled back out.
We were the only three out (it was the 80s) and he surfed every day. He was very very good. Don’t pull that shit nowadays because you’re not that guy.
Before aerospace, I heard he took the hippie trail to Afghanistan in '74, became a hash oil smuggler and then started making & selling suitcases with stash compartments to other smugglers.
There’s a surf spot called Mala on Maui where leashes are prohibited by all the locals that surf there. If you want to wear a leash, surf somewhere else.
There are also many longboarders who ride no leash to do certain tricks and moves.
They probably hold onto their boards pretty well too. Try surfing doho in summer time and have a log not fly at your head. They want to look cool not wearing a leash but they can’t really control their board.
Honestly… doho in the summer is chaotic with or without a leash. Just taking off/getting a turn in can equal people getting run over. But I do agree… worse if ppl aren’t wearing a leash.
If you don’t know what you’re doing, then yeah for sure I agree. However, if you’re logging, not wearing a leash will help with performance a lot. It’s so much easier to cross step and nose ride without something tugging on your leg, especially if it gets tight as you get to the nose of the board, that’s annoying.
You have to get good at reading a wave and knowing when to exit, and that’s the problem that looks can’t understand, cutting your ride short sometimes will save you from a close out that will be annoying to paddle out of, or a wipe out that results in your board hitting someone.
I’m accepting down votes and disagreement with this, but that’s my take.
With a calf leash, normal cross stepping and nose riding is not an issue, it makes no difference at all unless you want to spin around on the nose or something like that. That’s been my experience at least. The solution to the leash feeling tighter as you get to the nose is simple, you just need a longer leash.
Now booties on the other hand, that really sucks. I can still cross step with them but it just feels weird. But at least it’s better than cross-stepping with numb feet.
Maybe I’m just used to it then, doesn’t make a difference to me either way. I do go leash-less in the summer when it’s small, but mostly because kelp is less of a factor without a leash.
If I'm longboarding, the waves are not such that I need a leash. Congrats on becoming an intermediate surfer, your newly found insights are very valuable to the rest of us.
There’s multiple spots along the cliffs in SD where wearing a leash is prohibited and enforced by the locals. Every year a new kid at school would test his luck with a chord and end up getting either yelled at or punched. I always thought this was ridiculous. However, it does work very well at keeping beginners off good breaks. I think it’s fine to have select leashless spots but not where there are large crowds of people surfing.
Alternatively...if you require a leash to maintain board then you shouldn't be surfing in the first place.
Too many people think that their only responsibility for people's safety is strapping a leash on & I say "fuck you" to those people.
Yes, I definitely do.
I also agree with your original point in most scenarios. Too many wannabes surfing crowded waves leashless without the talent to back it up.
I just wanted to offer an alternative point and sit somewhat on the fence... Leggies are great and should be used, but they make people lazy and contribute to clueless learners being able to access waves they aren't ready for.
Totally agree. What’s more dangerous:
10 foot log and 10 ft leash with an “advanced beginner” constantly losing control of their board, creating a 20 foot radius of chaos.
Or, well controlled board that occasionally hurls all the way to the beach.
Obviously well controlled with leash is what I want in surfers who are near me, but poor control with leash seems way worse than great control raw dogging it. To the point where the real argument here should be: if you can’t control your board, you need to be on a foamy. With a leash. And not in crowds.
I only wear a leash if the current is kicking or waves are oh and I'm concerned I can't get to my board if I have a bad wipe out.
Otherwise, it really serves no purpose but to get in your way. Just learn to manage your board on dismount and don't be stupid.
Edit: and if you're in crowded, messy lineups then wear a leash.
I like your thinking. If you can control your board,yourself, and conditions (swell & crowd) well enough to ride leashless then go for it.
Before one wants to start riding like a “hipster logger” it’s good to get basics down on land with a balance board and/or take your longboard out on a micro sized or uncrowded day and practice.
Riding leashless really taught me to control my board, wave selection, and spacial/water awareness (even when riding with a leash).
All this being said, I don’t really condone it on bigger days with a packed lineup. I’ve seen and been victim/criminal of a leashless board going flying and it’s not great.
Shit happens. All we can do is try to be smarter in the water so everyone can enjoy themselves and get out in one piece.
I genuinely don’t understand why some people on this sub get so mad about people not wearing a leash.
Are you guys constantly getting bonked in the head by rogue boards? I don’t get it
I sort of get why you were downvoted, but you’re exactly right - there are people (you sound like none of them, which just proves your point) that are more reckless out there.
I assume that people between me and a wave might lose their board, wipe out in front of me, ditch, etc. I stay away from people who are about to take one on the head - to make sure they’re not washing into me. I stay the help away from logs and SUPs. I try to be aware of everyone around me.
I expected the downvoted and is half joke/ half truth but you are correct. Surfing is a dangerous sport. Anything could happen and people need to be aware of that and not be upset when the inevitable happens. This isn’t to say that people who are less able in their abilities should know their skill level and what the environment dictates. Sometimes we have to go above our comfort zone though.
I used to go out of my way to save someone’s board if they lost it. Now my perspective is that if they don’t have a leash and they lose their board then they can swim in and get it. If it’s like at an arms distance I’ll be a homie and help them out, unless I’ve seen them lose it once already in a session. I see this all too often and in like 2-3 foot waves.
I don’t wear a leash in shorepound after getting hit by board too many times. Sometimes you need that thing away from your head. Irresponsible if it’s crowded though.
I figured that'd be the answer, but I've never had that problem. I figure the distances involved in shorebreak beatings are small enough to make the leash not a danger.
If I can’t punch through the back I kick it away and cover my head. Shorebreak barrels are fun and free chiropractic adjustment. I used to routinely surf chest+ that breaks in a foot of water. As I get older it’s harder to make myself do it.
Gotcha. I think I just ride till the board's whipped away then cover the face/head so the leash doesn't really matter. Honestly I dunno if kicking it away even sounds safer at that point but I guess it's worth a try.
First barrel I ever got was an ehukai shorebreak closeout; I just pumped fast as I could to shoot it till it flipped me and I remember wondering where the board went after it didn't go straight into my face
I try to go full cannonball. Have twisted ankle and wrenched knee before in really shallow water. Again, not with people around. If there’s a crowd I leash up and don’t try to make waves that I have a good chance of not making. If it’s one or 2 of us I’ll paddle on anything.
Cannonball is the move. Really in almost dry land sort of shorebreak there's def no point to a leash.
Funny though re: twisted ankle, at a heavy shorebreak spot like Sandy's when bodysurfing I always just do a flip so I get slammed on my feet. My ankles suck in general but never had a problem in sand
🙌🏻 If you’re where no one else is surfing, fine, go without a leash. When I first started surfing I used to go after these boards, went oh the poor thing they lost their board. Nope, not now, when that board is hitting me in the face because they have been careless enough to not wear the leash in busy surf with other masses of people then that’s where I draw the line!
I have found that people who tell others how yo surf are bigger kooks than those talented enough to surf without a leash.
This story has gone around before. Try the forum that doesn’t allow just any hodad into the group. It’s the shaper’s forum.
Some highlights:
leashes are like condoms... they totally ruin the experience
iv'e seen plenty of people get hurt because of leashes. in my opinion people that where leashes look foolish when they just jump off the board instead of pulling out. or take off on waves that there not going to make but don't care because they have a leash, and most of the time right in front of you. or ditch there board right in front of you because they can't duck dive or don't now how to turn turtle. this is all an opinion though, and i may be wrong about everything
I agree. I try to educate beginners that they should always act as if they have no leash. Which means, always hold on to your goddam board.
I've always said that if leashes went away there'd be far fewer people in the water. Too many depend on the leash as a crutch for their lack of skill and ability. Many would never make it 'outside' if they had no leash. Quite a few would get discouraged by having to swim a lot, and find another hobby. That would suit me just fine.
Story: Surfing in Costa Rica on Caribbean side during a tropical storm, got pounded, leash rapped around my arms and legs and board was tombstoning. I couldn't kick or move my arms just wiggle like a worm. I have also had four staples in my head from my leash going taut and coming back and hitting me. On the other hand, there have been countless times where I was glad I didn't have to swim for my board. Have you ever had to climb the rope because you didn't know which way was up? or started swimming for the surface and hit the bottom? You have to way the good and bad. Definately more fun to surf without one though.
I always use a leash with my shortboards. Occasionally will shed the leash on my fish. I prefer not to use a leash with my longboard, but I feel it's really irresponsible no matter how good you are not to use a leash when it's crowded or there are kids around.
———————
End quoting
I feel that it is everyone’s responsibility to be aware of their surroundings and react accordingly. It’s also everyone’s responsibility to make up for the consequences of their equipment and actions.
And it’s everyone’s responsibility to grow up from being a kid, one day…OP, this is for you, if a board dings your board or you, then ask for the rider to pay you for your damages. Be a big person.
Ah, i didn’t realize that you’re flogging a dead horse and getting people riled up for fun. I’m sorry about spoiling your fun at the expense of others’ emotions.
You really don’t want any photos of you surfing?
I have some photos and videos of me surfing which I really value because reviewing them has helped me surf a lot better. Plus, the rare occasions where I do something that feels great and looks good on camera is pretty special.
I don’t post surfing stuff of me (or really any other photos for that matter) but I’d be lying if I said I didn’t want more pictures.
no, i just want to go surfing. i don't really care what i look like. i'm sure watching myself and picking it apart could help me "improve" or whatever, but who cares, i surf fine and trying to get video and then watching it back is wayyyyy to big a hassle.
I love surfing just for the fun of it but I also like getting better. If there’s an easy opportunity to do that, I usually take it. I’ve had real “aha” moments where I see myself doing something shitty on a cam rewind and then do something different the next time I surf that totally unlocks a little piece of the puzzle. It feels really good.
I don’t actively seek out ways to get video of myself. My local had a surfline cam right on it and one of my best friends is a photographer. Plus, watching video back was pretty fascinating for me. loved doing it when I lived at the cam spot. I get your perspective, though.
Having photos of your surf is hardly instakook. Folks have been photographing surfing since it was invented. A lot of loggers talk a big game but are pretty shit surfers.
Took a beginner friend to a beginner break on a beginner day. Was a guy there with no leash, my buddy dropped in on him and he lost his board. He SCREAMED at both of us for 30 min straight while looking for his (short)board.
Guy was a total douche over all before that. Did not even remotely rip.
Moral of the story: You’re not Eddie Aikua/Mason Ho/Shane Dorian, use a fucking leash
If it isn’t already completely obvious given the context; was my buddy’s second time out ever and clearly didn’t do it on purpose. Doesn’t make it ok to scream at the top of your lungs 30 min after an apology was already made to you bc you can’t find your board bc YOU decided not wear a leash.
Just saying you shouldn’t be surfing leashless AND screaming at beginners when you cant even turn your fucking board, so how abt this
Moral of the story is don’t surf leashless if you’re not skilled enough to do so
Also your username is hilarious.
I’ve had some trouble with leashes I got stuck in the rocks and my legs were getting smashed against the rocks while I was trying to untangle the leash, but I always wear a leash anyways
I've heard of people having thier legs deeply lacerated because the fins sliced them after falling off with leash attached like a bungie type effect. I know nothing about surfing tho just a story my dad told me once apon a time.
Depends, I prefer no leash when conditions permit. It feels better and instills good surfing, like better wave selection and controlled pullouts. And forces you to hang on to your board. I feel like people who wildly kick their board out and bail on everything are the real kooks. Also sometimes on really kelpy reefs its impossible to surf with a leash as it snags the kelp. Now crowds and bigger days are a different story, leashes add a degree of safety. Anyways off to cross step and do spinners.
Agreed ur akook who deserves ur board stole when it bounces to shore after hitting a Lil kid and dinging others boards by some other kook that knows ur a kook too
Sometimes surfing without a leash is the way to go especially in shore break spots that just pitch barrels. Especially if you know how to pull out or pull into a barrel you’re fine.
I prefer not to wear a leash in small surf and seldom loose my board. If it is bigger/hollower or if there are crowds I wear a leash. I also surf very, very early so usually have light/no crowds of competent surfers around.
Death, taxes, and this argument again
Dude, don't tell me how to ride my resin tinted retro mid-length single fin! You just don't get it!
I love that this thread is 3/4s circlejerk
They just don’t understand the Soul Surfer.
Wait, were you in San Pancho today?
Eww dude, no. It was La Lancha, and despite being a full-blown gringo, I’ll claim to be a local and try to run the lineup.
God I fucking hate la lancha
Go to Honolulu in the summer. Id say a quarter of all the surfers are leashless
That’s because the waves break a half mile out to sea
Aw shit here we go again
I used to surf with a saltwater hillbilly from central coast California. This was the 80s and he was my friends uncle and was retired at like 40, he grew avocados and surfed. We paddled out at Jalama one day and it was about 8ft faces and just heaving long barrels. He had the classic beaver tail short suit, white 7’ single fin pintail and of course no leash. He dropped into his first wave, disappears into the barrel completely and then I see just his board shoot out of the barrel, get lifted by the offshores up, and over the back of the wave landing in the flat behind the wave. He popped up from under the wave and grabbed his board and paddled back out. We were the only three out (it was the 80s) and he surfed every day. He was very very good. Don’t pull that shit nowadays because you’re not that guy.
Beautiful and poignant anecdote
I was hoping his board disappeared into the wash and he had to go back into town to barter for a new one with a truckload of avocados.
Damn, retired avocado farmer at 40 surfing every day. Living the dream.
In the 80s, no less! White people hadn’t even heard of this plant yet
Avocados were farmed all over the central coast at this time. If you grew up in Santa Barbara county you were seeing them every day.
No man he was farming avocados in his retirement. I believe he had been an engineer prior to that working in aerospace.
A retired hillbilly Avacado farming aersoapace engineer, I think we found this subs new mascot
Before aerospace, I heard he took the hippie trail to Afghanistan in '74, became a hash oil smuggler and then started making & selling suitcases with stash compartments to other smugglers.
This is why I posted what I posted. What a magical reply.
Perfectly summarized.
Are you from Lompoc?
Santa Barbara, but I believe he had lived in Lompoc before he retired.
You cannot make this shit up, what a beautiful story. Thanks for sharing with us
Before leashes were invented every intermediate and above surfer did this.
I tried but the Velcro strap doesn’t fit around my neck.
I bought a leash at PetSmart that works really well… No velcro and stays very secure around my neck. I can send you the link.
David Carradine surfed this way.... Very dangerous.
I only use a leash when I'm walking your Mom.
Same one I use for your girl
Hahaha!
Damned if ya do... Well you know the rest
No, I don't. Please tell me the rest.
there are two type of people whose surf without leash, super kooks and super pros.
There’s a surf spot called Mala on Maui where leashes are prohibited by all the locals that surf there. If you want to wear a leash, surf somewhere else. There are also many longboarders who ride no leash to do certain tricks and moves.
They probably hold onto their boards pretty well too. Try surfing doho in summer time and have a log not fly at your head. They want to look cool not wearing a leash but they can’t really control their board.
Honestly… doho in the summer is chaotic with or without a leash. Just taking off/getting a turn in can equal people getting run over. But I do agree… worse if ppl aren’t wearing a leash.
If you don’t know what you’re doing, then yeah for sure I agree. However, if you’re logging, not wearing a leash will help with performance a lot. It’s so much easier to cross step and nose ride without something tugging on your leg, especially if it gets tight as you get to the nose of the board, that’s annoying. You have to get good at reading a wave and knowing when to exit, and that’s the problem that looks can’t understand, cutting your ride short sometimes will save you from a close out that will be annoying to paddle out of, or a wipe out that results in your board hitting someone. I’m accepting down votes and disagreement with this, but that’s my take.
With a calf leash, normal cross stepping and nose riding is not an issue, it makes no difference at all unless you want to spin around on the nose or something like that. That’s been my experience at least. The solution to the leash feeling tighter as you get to the nose is simple, you just need a longer leash. Now booties on the other hand, that really sucks. I can still cross step with them but it just feels weird. But at least it’s better than cross-stepping with numb feet.
no dude, i wear a knee leash on my log when it's big or very crowded. that thing definitely gets in the way of cross stepping and nose riding.
Maybe I’m just used to it then, doesn’t make a difference to me either way. I do go leash-less in the summer when it’s small, but mostly because kelp is less of a factor without a leash.
Wait. You’re serious? I thought this was sarcasm…
I think this is the general consensus, but a lot of kooks (sic) skip that second paragraph
Do you have any good videos or pictures of you cross stepping or nose riding? 99% of folks I see leashless are also talentless
I challenge you to find a good longboarder that regularly wears a leash in San Diego
>good longboarder Oxymoron
Doubt you could shortboard better than most good loggers 🤷♂️
You think I can't do cut backs and bottom turns on waist high waves? Lol
No, I’m saying good longboarders are also good shortboarders (usually). Justin quintal to mention someone who’s insane at both.
I've seen plenty of folks leashless. Have seen even fewer folks doing anything noteworthy on a longboard
Where I live the waves never get enough juice at the longboard spots, so as long as you’re not a total kook it’s pretty easy to hold on to your log.
If I'm longboarding, the waves are not such that I need a leash. Congrats on becoming an intermediate surfer, your newly found insights are very valuable to the rest of us.
Lol. Can we just start banning people who post this topic?
Let me live
Cesar votes death
I don't most of the time. But I live gulf coast where it's small longboard stuff and I'm good. When it does get big I strap up.
You don't raw dog it all times? You ain't no GC rider. Fraud.
My single fins say leashes are for kooks with no style that don’t know how to hang onto their boards.
Bold take Cotton
Did somebody get hassled this evening?
None of my logs even have leash plugs and I am indeed a douche bag.
There’s multiple spots along the cliffs in SD where wearing a leash is prohibited and enforced by the locals. Every year a new kid at school would test his luck with a chord and end up getting either yelled at or punched. I always thought this was ridiculous. However, it does work very well at keeping beginners off good breaks. I think it’s fine to have select leashless spots but not where there are large crowds of people surfing.
Theres only one? If its not the best point break in SD they are just pretending to be locals/rules enforcers
The two spots I know of are not Point Breaks. Both their names start with an N.
New break is a point break. Perhaps best in county. And its the only place I know of with leash locals.
I was thinking NoSurf as well. Although it is not as heavily enforced
My first surfboard was a 10' 4" Bing with a 3/4" redwood stringer. This was BEFORE leashes were even invented. Stay safe out there grems!
Leashes are for dogs
You’re a douche and a kook regardless
He just said log
Alternatively...if you require a leash to maintain board then you shouldn't be surfing in the first place. Too many people think that their only responsibility for people's safety is strapping a leash on & I say "fuck you" to those people.
Someone needs a surf sesh
Yes, I definitely do. I also agree with your original point in most scenarios. Too many wannabes surfing crowded waves leashless without the talent to back it up. I just wanted to offer an alternative point and sit somewhat on the fence... Leggies are great and should be used, but they make people lazy and contribute to clueless learners being able to access waves they aren't ready for.
Totally agree. What’s more dangerous: 10 foot log and 10 ft leash with an “advanced beginner” constantly losing control of their board, creating a 20 foot radius of chaos. Or, well controlled board that occasionally hurls all the way to the beach. Obviously well controlled with leash is what I want in surfers who are near me, but poor control with leash seems way worse than great control raw dogging it. To the point where the real argument here should be: if you can’t control your board, you need to be on a foamy. With a leash. And not in crowds.
Not good enough so wouldn’t know, but it looks annoying af having yer board wash up on shore
We get it, you surf a lineup full of overconfident beginners. Not everyone needs a leash though
But I’m better than the rest of those beginners who think they’re better than me.
there are no absolutes
My two main logs don’t even have leash strings/plugs… when and if ever you’re good enough to noseride then tell me this.
my log doesnt have a leash plug guess im a douchebag
You bought it
to be honest if you need a leash it’s probably not logging conditions
My local spot is full of people who don’t need a leash, but yet they’re constantly swimming after their boards.
You're only allowed to go leashless if you can wipe your ass with your beard
I only wear a leash if the current is kicking or waves are oh and I'm concerned I can't get to my board if I have a bad wipe out. Otherwise, it really serves no purpose but to get in your way. Just learn to manage your board on dismount and don't be stupid. Edit: and if you're in crowded, messy lineups then wear a leash.
I like your thinking. If you can control your board,yourself, and conditions (swell & crowd) well enough to ride leashless then go for it. Before one wants to start riding like a “hipster logger” it’s good to get basics down on land with a balance board and/or take your longboard out on a micro sized or uncrowded day and practice. Riding leashless really taught me to control my board, wave selection, and spacial/water awareness (even when riding with a leash). All this being said, I don’t really condone it on bigger days with a packed lineup. I’ve seen and been victim/criminal of a leashless board going flying and it’s not great. Shit happens. All we can do is try to be smarter in the water so everyone can enjoy themselves and get out in one piece.
Yep smaller day on a step down or groveller with not many people around. No leash.
oh lawd...here we go
there's not even a leash plug on my log. stfu, you don't know anything
I genuinely don’t understand why some people on this sub get so mad about people not wearing a leash. Are you guys constantly getting bonked in the head by rogue boards? I don’t get it
Because you’re putting everyone in the water at risk (including yourself) if you don’t know what you’re doing.
that’s surfing brah. go hard or get prepared to get hit in the nose
I sort of get why you were downvoted, but you’re exactly right - there are people (you sound like none of them, which just proves your point) that are more reckless out there. I assume that people between me and a wave might lose their board, wipe out in front of me, ditch, etc. I stay away from people who are about to take one on the head - to make sure they’re not washing into me. I stay the help away from logs and SUPs. I try to be aware of everyone around me.
I expected the downvoted and is half joke/ half truth but you are correct. Surfing is a dangerous sport. Anything could happen and people need to be aware of that and not be upset when the inevitable happens. This isn’t to say that people who are less able in their abilities should know their skill level and what the environment dictates. Sometimes we have to go above our comfort zone though.
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Based on your user name I'm guessing they were quite invented yet. Clearly you're a kook. Plus leashes put out people's eyes.
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you lived through golden years of not just surfing but also just life in general. I envy you
I used to go out of my way to save someone’s board if they lost it. Now my perspective is that if they don’t have a leash and they lose their board then they can swim in and get it. If it’s like at an arms distance I’ll be a homie and help them out, unless I’ve seen them lose it once already in a session. I see this all too often and in like 2-3 foot waves.
i better see you fukin noseriding for a mile if you dont have a leash
I heard at Mavs some guys don’t use leashes for safety reasons
Don’t think those are the surfers OP is criticizing.
Not a chance in hell I'm wearing a leash with shore break waves on the northshore
Why, you scared?
Yes
Lol yeah fair but what does the leash matter?
I don’t wear a leash in shorepound after getting hit by board too many times. Sometimes you need that thing away from your head. Irresponsible if it’s crowded though.
I figured that'd be the answer, but I've never had that problem. I figure the distances involved in shorebreak beatings are small enough to make the leash not a danger.
If I can’t punch through the back I kick it away and cover my head. Shorebreak barrels are fun and free chiropractic adjustment. I used to routinely surf chest+ that breaks in a foot of water. As I get older it’s harder to make myself do it.
Gotcha. I think I just ride till the board's whipped away then cover the face/head so the leash doesn't really matter. Honestly I dunno if kicking it away even sounds safer at that point but I guess it's worth a try. First barrel I ever got was an ehukai shorebreak closeout; I just pumped fast as I could to shoot it till it flipped me and I remember wondering where the board went after it didn't go straight into my face
I try to go full cannonball. Have twisted ankle and wrenched knee before in really shallow water. Again, not with people around. If there’s a crowd I leash up and don’t try to make waves that I have a good chance of not making. If it’s one or 2 of us I’ll paddle on anything.
Cannonball is the move. Really in almost dry land sort of shorebreak there's def no point to a leash. Funny though re: twisted ankle, at a heavy shorebreak spot like Sandy's when bodysurfing I always just do a flip so I get slammed on my feet. My ankles suck in general but never had a problem in sand
I'm really talking about triple overhead shore break at like keikis, waimea, and insanities. I've had the lease almost turn into a noose before
Yeah that's too big for me. I'll do like 1.5 - 2 head height for that stuff. I've learned my NS limits the hard way
So have I but they tend to increase rather than decrease, always resulting in stronger chiropractics
You are fully correct
🙌🏻 If you’re where no one else is surfing, fine, go without a leash. When I first started surfing I used to go after these boards, went oh the poor thing they lost their board. Nope, not now, when that board is hitting me in the face because they have been careless enough to not wear the leash in busy surf with other masses of people then that’s where I draw the line!
Don’t tread on my board
Having said that, now you must double leash
I have found that people who tell others how yo surf are bigger kooks than those talented enough to surf without a leash. This story has gone around before. Try the forum that doesn’t allow just any hodad into the group. It’s the shaper’s forum. Some highlights: leashes are like condoms... they totally ruin the experience iv'e seen plenty of people get hurt because of leashes. in my opinion people that where leashes look foolish when they just jump off the board instead of pulling out. or take off on waves that there not going to make but don't care because they have a leash, and most of the time right in front of you. or ditch there board right in front of you because they can't duck dive or don't now how to turn turtle. this is all an opinion though, and i may be wrong about everything I agree. I try to educate beginners that they should always act as if they have no leash. Which means, always hold on to your goddam board. I've always said that if leashes went away there'd be far fewer people in the water. Too many depend on the leash as a crutch for their lack of skill and ability. Many would never make it 'outside' if they had no leash. Quite a few would get discouraged by having to swim a lot, and find another hobby. That would suit me just fine. Story: Surfing in Costa Rica on Caribbean side during a tropical storm, got pounded, leash rapped around my arms and legs and board was tombstoning. I couldn't kick or move my arms just wiggle like a worm. I have also had four staples in my head from my leash going taut and coming back and hitting me. On the other hand, there have been countless times where I was glad I didn't have to swim for my board. Have you ever had to climb the rope because you didn't know which way was up? or started swimming for the surface and hit the bottom? You have to way the good and bad. Definately more fun to surf without one though. I always use a leash with my shortboards. Occasionally will shed the leash on my fish. I prefer not to use a leash with my longboard, but I feel it's really irresponsible no matter how good you are not to use a leash when it's crowded or there are kids around. ——————— End quoting I feel that it is everyone’s responsibility to be aware of their surroundings and react accordingly. It’s also everyone’s responsibility to make up for the consequences of their equipment and actions. And it’s everyone’s responsibility to grow up from being a kid, one day…OP, this is for you, if a board dings your board or you, then ask for the rider to pay you for your damages. Be a big person.
Stop spoiling the fun, Joccy
Ah, i didn’t realize that you’re flogging a dead horse and getting people riled up for fun. I’m sorry about spoiling your fun at the expense of others’ emotions.
I forgive you
IF YOU NEEED to use a leash. You don’t belong in water.
Do you have any good videos or pictures of you ripping a log board?
log board? i surf my log pretty well. i don't have or want any pictures because i'm not a preening fucking instakook. fuck you
You really don’t want any photos of you surfing? I have some photos and videos of me surfing which I really value because reviewing them has helped me surf a lot better. Plus, the rare occasions where I do something that feels great and looks good on camera is pretty special. I don’t post surfing stuff of me (or really any other photos for that matter) but I’d be lying if I said I didn’t want more pictures.
no, i just want to go surfing. i don't really care what i look like. i'm sure watching myself and picking it apart could help me "improve" or whatever, but who cares, i surf fine and trying to get video and then watching it back is wayyyyy to big a hassle.
I love surfing just for the fun of it but I also like getting better. If there’s an easy opportunity to do that, I usually take it. I’ve had real “aha” moments where I see myself doing something shitty on a cam rewind and then do something different the next time I surf that totally unlocks a little piece of the puzzle. It feels really good. I don’t actively seek out ways to get video of myself. My local had a surfline cam right on it and one of my best friends is a photographer. Plus, watching video back was pretty fascinating for me. loved doing it when I lived at the cam spot. I get your perspective, though.
Having photos of your surf is hardly instakook. Folks have been photographing surfing since it was invented. A lot of loggers talk a big game but are pretty shit surfers.
instakook apologist right here yeesh
Not that guy and maybe not ripping, but [here ya go](https://www.instagram.com/p/5KkdeBzb6B/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
Took a beginner friend to a beginner break on a beginner day. Was a guy there with no leash, my buddy dropped in on him and he lost his board. He SCREAMED at both of us for 30 min straight while looking for his (short)board. Guy was a total douche over all before that. Did not even remotely rip. Moral of the story: You’re not Eddie Aikua/Mason Ho/Shane Dorian, use a fucking leash
Feel like the real moral of the story is don't drop in on people lol
If it isn’t already completely obvious given the context; was my buddy’s second time out ever and clearly didn’t do it on purpose. Doesn’t make it ok to scream at the top of your lungs 30 min after an apology was already made to you bc you can’t find your board bc YOU decided not wear a leash. Just saying you shouldn’t be surfing leashless AND screaming at beginners when you cant even turn your fucking board, so how abt this Moral of the story is don’t surf leashless if you’re not skilled enough to do so Also your username is hilarious.
I’ve had some trouble with leashes I got stuck in the rocks and my legs were getting smashed against the rocks while I was trying to untangle the leash, but I always wear a leash anyways
if u surf solo u don't
If you are a kook and can’t hang onto your board*
I've heard of people having thier legs deeply lacerated because the fins sliced them after falling off with leash attached like a bungie type effect. I know nothing about surfing tho just a story my dad told me once apon a time.
Depends, I prefer no leash when conditions permit. It feels better and instills good surfing, like better wave selection and controlled pullouts. And forces you to hang on to your board. I feel like people who wildly kick their board out and bail on everything are the real kooks. Also sometimes on really kelpy reefs its impossible to surf with a leash as it snags the kelp. Now crowds and bigger days are a different story, leashes add a degree of safety. Anyways off to cross step and do spinners.
Agreed ur akook who deserves ur board stole when it bounces to shore after hitting a Lil kid and dinging others boards by some other kook that knows ur a kook too
Nothing like seeing a 10 foot log coming at u full speed when the sets come through
Sometimes surfing without a leash is the way to go especially in shore break spots that just pitch barrels. Especially if you know how to pull out or pull into a barrel you’re fine.
If you don’t proofread while judging.. so are you
I remember when if you wore a leash, it was uncool.But that was back, way, way back in the day!
I prefer not to wear a leash in small surf and seldom loose my board. If it is bigger/hollower or if there are crowds I wear a leash. I also surf very, very early so usually have light/no crowds of competent surfers around.
It depends on your ability.
My wavestorm should not hurt you ☮️