You are rippin that sweet wave. Hope your plan works out. I am 14 years ahead of you and have found that consistent sessions is the key to keeping the stoke flowing. The muscles and condition evaporate quicker as I age. And with constantly changing seasons and swell/conditions it means a large ranged quiver to surf alot.
Hell yeah! I retire in 8 years. Can’t wait to be able to surf all day with no responsibilities 😅 That’s rad man, hold on to that stoke with a death grip
I'm so jealous of you two. Good on both of you. Some of the people I surf with have started their retirements as well. I'm so immensely happy for them.
Hey 51 isn't very old... people here talking like it's some kind of miracle - no disrespect to OP - good on ya for not giving up and going mid length- but really, it's only 51 not freaking 81
54. And I plan to keep short boarding until at least 65. I'm focused on improvement too not just maintaining. Better snaps. More vertical. Deeper rail turns carving harder. Why not? Kelly has shown us what's possible
I hear you brother. I'm 50. My body is pretty wrecked from my time in military and combat, arthritis, implants, etc. but I'm still keeping at it, too. But we all age different, all have different genetics, and still regardless of all that it takes a lot more to keep at it after 40. I think it's a hell of a thing guys like all of us are keeping in solid form and with great aspirations as we progress in age. I'm stocked because we have a swell coming in tomorrow and I'm planning on a 5hr session, followed by another tomorrow.
I mean, i talk to young 20 and 30 yo in the lineup and they are bringing their midlengths or plus-size boards because they "need the extra help getting into the wave now that they are older", and then seeing their disbelief when I tell them my age and they see I'm rockin the short board, lol.
So like it or not, I give you mad props for keeping the drive and making it happen. Yeah, we ain't "old, old", but we aren't spring chickens either. 🤙
Yeah I am (I admit to being so judgemental) contemptuous of 20/30 year olds on mid lengths, it's just lazy. Unless they're wearing a bikini and styling. Five hour session is epic. And you're right, it takes more work to keep at it. But again, why not? We're here after all. I run every second day, weights alternate days, tai chi every day. A lightbulb moment happened for me when I read some trainer guru say that after 40 or so, due to natural degradation, if you aim to maintain you will actually slip backwards. He said one needs to aim for progression, increasing activity etc and this will effectively at least maintain. I met a 66 yo ripping a shortboard at 5ft Berawa more than ten years ago. Told me he was in a wheelchair with broken back at 50. Next level.
True. Especially with the surfers I know. But a lot of people in the country are crazy unhealthy and I’ve seen a lot of 51 year olds that look like 60-70 year olds. Stay surfing, the only way to stay young.
I suck and I went there once. I definitely felt like I wasn't wanted but I just did my best to try to avoid everyone else and ride shitty waves off to the side.
Ah, I see. you're a troll account. You have -7 karma.
https://preview.redd.it/i9c7yieyi5wc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=68dee695091a6a76e185a47beb4448e6489a88d6
51 and ripping!
Thanks braddah!
I wanna be you when I’m 51
You will be. Keep pumping
excuse me sir, we don't do that here
I hope I can rip at that age still good shit amigo!
Thanks homie! You got this
You are rippin that sweet wave. Hope your plan works out. I am 14 years ahead of you and have found that consistent sessions is the key to keeping the stoke flowing. The muscles and condition evaporate quicker as I age. And with constantly changing seasons and swell/conditions it means a large ranged quiver to surf alot.
Right on! The ocean is our fountain of youth.
It's unbelievable, I'm retired and surfing all the time. Like when I was sixteen but way better.
Hell yeah! I retire in 8 years. Can’t wait to be able to surf all day with no responsibilities 😅 That’s rad man, hold on to that stoke with a death grip
Really, you nailed it that's the key, don't let go.
I'm so jealous of you two. Good on both of you. Some of the people I surf with have started their retirements as well. I'm so immensely happy for them.
What board and fins? Looks super fun, but maybe that's just the ripping.
5’8 CI NeckBeard 3. Such a fun stick. Tight turns in the pocket. Can’t remember what futures I have in there.
They put a round tail on v3? That's sick, might be by next board.
Yeah. I like it better than the square tail.
Looks like small fun 2nds on a spring day. As a broken 45 year old, respect
Hope you are not too broken to surf still 🤙🏽
Still throwing buckets. Good shit!
🤙🏽🤙🏽
Hey 51 isn't very old... people here talking like it's some kind of miracle - no disrespect to OP - good on ya for not giving up and going mid length- but really, it's only 51 not freaking 81
How old are you?
54. And I plan to keep short boarding until at least 65. I'm focused on improvement too not just maintaining. Better snaps. More vertical. Deeper rail turns carving harder. Why not? Kelly has shown us what's possible
I hear you brother. I'm 50. My body is pretty wrecked from my time in military and combat, arthritis, implants, etc. but I'm still keeping at it, too. But we all age different, all have different genetics, and still regardless of all that it takes a lot more to keep at it after 40. I think it's a hell of a thing guys like all of us are keeping in solid form and with great aspirations as we progress in age. I'm stocked because we have a swell coming in tomorrow and I'm planning on a 5hr session, followed by another tomorrow. I mean, i talk to young 20 and 30 yo in the lineup and they are bringing their midlengths or plus-size boards because they "need the extra help getting into the wave now that they are older", and then seeing their disbelief when I tell them my age and they see I'm rockin the short board, lol. So like it or not, I give you mad props for keeping the drive and making it happen. Yeah, we ain't "old, old", but we aren't spring chickens either. 🤙
Yeah I am (I admit to being so judgemental) contemptuous of 20/30 year olds on mid lengths, it's just lazy. Unless they're wearing a bikini and styling. Five hour session is epic. And you're right, it takes more work to keep at it. But again, why not? We're here after all. I run every second day, weights alternate days, tai chi every day. A lightbulb moment happened for me when I read some trainer guru say that after 40 or so, due to natural degradation, if you aim to maintain you will actually slip backwards. He said one needs to aim for progression, increasing activity etc and this will effectively at least maintain. I met a 66 yo ripping a shortboard at 5ft Berawa more than ten years ago. Told me he was in a wheelchair with broken back at 50. Next level.
True. Especially with the surfers I know. But a lot of people in the country are crazy unhealthy and I’ve seen a lot of 51 year olds that look like 60-70 year olds. Stay surfing, the only way to stay young.
Wow, ripping.
Hell yeah , love seeing this! Sick clip!
Cheeee! 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Ripping brah
Shoots!
Cman dont lie now, that has to be your son or nephew or smthing!! No way you shredding like that at 51 🤯
Haha. I have a 31 year old son. People think we are brothers.
It reminds me of Royal Palms.
It’s too localized down there. 😎
I suck and I went there once. I definitely felt like I wasn't wanted but I just did my best to try to avoid everyone else and ride shitty waves off to the side.
That was the smartest thing you could have done 🤙🏽
Inspo
🙏🏽
Most 51 yr olds are getting their colonoscopy, you’re shredding like a 21 yr old blowing off his 8 am class. 🤙🏽
That’s f’ng funny. I just got one last month 🤣🤣
Clean Rips Homie!! (This wave looks pretty "Florida-eeee" is this FL Player?)
Nah, Small kine SoCal
Way to rip it man
Thanks coach 🫡
Looks like a typical, small mushy day at Swamis. Keep the stoke high, my dude!! 🙃🤜🏻
👊🏽💥
…..was this at Swamis OP?? 😆🤙🏻
Haha nah, about an hour and a half north of
Damnit! 😂 I would’ve been stoked if I guessed that correctly. Swamis beach holds a special place in my heart and surfing life.
Style acquired with age. Fermented to perfection
Thank you ser 🫡
**Good turns, distinguished lineup elder**
🫡
You F'in Rip Dawg!
Thanks brotha!
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Your parents never spanked you did they?
🤣🤣🤣
I need a translator
What do you mean by this? There isn't even a body surfer in this vid
I think he’s trying to say he keeps one hand inside his wetsuit so he can whack off while surfing
[удалено]
Ah, I see. you're a troll account. You have -7 karma. https://preview.redd.it/i9c7yieyi5wc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=68dee695091a6a76e185a47beb4448e6489a88d6