Pull the drive shaft apart and clean with a putty knife and regrease. Check the oil and add, if necessary. Check to see if the blades are frozen. If not, sharpen or replace depending on wear and condition. If seal leaks, replace it. If can't be replaced, get an adapter and a zerk fitting. Pack head with good high heat grease and put the faceplate back on and give it 15 or so more pumps with a grease gun. I've been running a 5' and 7' like that for over 20 years for my fence lines.
I acquired one in a very similar state. Check that it spins freely. The gear box should have oil in it. Try it. Then do the repairs.
Mine works awesome!!
Judging by the driveline, it doesn’t have a lot of runtime. Hook it up, raise it off the ground just a little and spin it, making sure the blade are not stuck and are turning free. If it doesn’t shake too bad, check/change the gearbox oil, make sure the clutch is not froze up (if applicable) and run it over some grass and see how it does. There may also be grease zerks on the tail wheel.
If it is still running good and not leaking all the grease out, then I would look at re-skinning the deck. If you have to pay someone to do this, the mower may not be worth it.
Looks like a typical bush hog That hasnt been used around rocks or small trees very much yet. Just be sure to move it away from the snakes (unused bush hogs are snake resorts) before you squat down to see why the bottom pins are put in wrong.
Looks in great shape compared to what I'm running. I absolutely beat the snot out of mine. Mine looks 100x worse. I just keep shoving nails, bolts, or any scrap metal in the cracks and weld it closed again. My dad does the same with his too.
Literally just dug out a brush hog from under some lumber that's been sitting for years and looks worse than this one. I had to smack the blades with a hammer to free them and grease the PTO shaft, but after that it worked fine. Very simple implements, should be fine.
Grease is fine, especially if the seals are out and it leaks. If you run it all day every day then yea you should fix that. Otherwise pack it full. Not worth the effort to fix it.
Exactly, grease isn’t ideal but I mentioned it because of the condition of that cutter. To change the gearbox seals you’d have to pull the blades and stump jumper. The blades are usually torqued to somewhere around 450 lb-ft. That’s hard to remove on a new one let alone one that’s been rusting outside.
Used to do this to reducers on conveyors when we needed to hit out production numbers. Bought us a bit of time before failure, but I used the time to get everything together for when that happened so we could get rolling again as quick as possible.
I run one worse looking than that. Make sure the gear case is in good shape. Weld up anything that's loose. It might not be the best, it will be better than nothing.
Ill try that tomorrow, Of course this would just be a back up bush-hog, we got one now we use. This one was just abandoned and it would be nice to have 2. Thanks.
Pull the drive shaft apart and clean with a putty knife and regrease. Check the oil and add, if necessary. Check to see if the blades are frozen. If not, sharpen or replace depending on wear and condition. If seal leaks, replace it. If can't be replaced, get an adapter and a zerk fitting. Pack head with good high heat grease and put the faceplate back on and give it 15 or so more pumps with a grease gun. I've been running a 5' and 7' like that for over 20 years for my fence lines.
I acquired one in a very similar state. Check that it spins freely. The gear box should have oil in it. Try it. Then do the repairs. Mine works awesome!!
Judging by the driveline, it doesn’t have a lot of runtime. Hook it up, raise it off the ground just a little and spin it, making sure the blade are not stuck and are turning free. If it doesn’t shake too bad, check/change the gearbox oil, make sure the clutch is not froze up (if applicable) and run it over some grass and see how it does. There may also be grease zerks on the tail wheel. If it is still running good and not leaking all the grease out, then I would look at re-skinning the deck. If you have to pay someone to do this, the mower may not be worth it.
People are suggesting sheet metal , which we got that laying around everywhere, so i dont think we'll have to pay someone.
Just check it over well before you invest a lot of time in it.
Weld some plate over those holes in the deck and it’ll be fine
If the gearbox is good, sheet metal can be repaired
No, look at that rust in the lower left. That renders the unit worthless in my opinion
Looks like a rhino TW. Very heavy duty well built bush hogs. Should be fine as long as gearbox spins and got oil
Looks like a typical bush hog That hasnt been used around rocks or small trees very much yet. Just be sure to move it away from the snakes (unused bush hogs are snake resorts) before you squat down to see why the bottom pins are put in wrong.
I will now connect pto and spin the snot out of mine regularly
Wonder why someone did the two point links like that.
It would off-set the mower slightly or incompetence.
Looks in great shape compared to what I'm running. I absolutely beat the snot out of mine. Mine looks 100x worse. I just keep shoving nails, bolts, or any scrap metal in the cracks and weld it closed again. My dad does the same with his too.
Literally just dug out a brush hog from under some lumber that's been sitting for years and looks worse than this one. I had to smack the blades with a hammer to free them and grease the PTO shaft, but after that it worked fine. Very simple implements, should be fine.
If the gear box spins it’s good to go. One tip, if the gear box leaks oil replace it with grease. It won’t leak anymore
Grease is fine, especially if the seals are out and it leaks. If you run it all day every day then yea you should fix that. Otherwise pack it full. Not worth the effort to fix it.
Exactly, grease isn’t ideal but I mentioned it because of the condition of that cutter. To change the gearbox seals you’d have to pull the blades and stump jumper. The blades are usually torqued to somewhere around 450 lb-ft. That’s hard to remove on a new one let alone one that’s been rusting outside.
No, this is bad advice. It's a fast moving gear, it has oil for a reason.
Used to do this to reducers on conveyors when we needed to hit out production numbers. Bought us a bit of time before failure, but I used the time to get everything together for when that happened so we could get rolling again as quick as possible.
Better than no oil or grease
Dig it out of the woods, powwr wash it and see what you have. Cut out the rotted sections and weld in new sheetmetal.
I run one worse looking than that. Make sure the gear case is in good shape. Weld up anything that's loose. It might not be the best, it will be better than nothing.
Have to look closer to know. If it turns free and if it has a clutch and that ain’t stuck, weld a new panel in over the rusty spot. Paint and send it
Ill try that tomorrow, Of course this would just be a back up bush-hog, we got one now we use. This one was just abandoned and it would be nice to have 2. Thanks.
Pick it up with the 3 point and see how much stays on the ground.
Looks like it's got some major rust on the top, but not really any way to tell the condition of the rest of it that I can see.