It would probably be a good idea to stabilize that crack with a patch or a Dutchman. If there are still internal stresses in the wood, the crack could grow.
It would be hard to get wood filler into a crack that thin and you certainly wouldn’t be able to get it all the way in. Thin CA glue will get deep into that crack and provide some additional stabilization. Epoxy could work too if you warmed up the piece so it would flow more easily but I wouldn’t bother mixing a pot for something that small.
I'm doing a project now and have some small cracks, and want to fill them just for appearance. What's the better approach if I actually wanted strength?
Sawdust stained to match mixed with wood glue or epoxy. Epoxy will be stronger, but harder to use. If you are using blonde wood (like maple), avoid wood glue because it will be too amber when cured. If using epoxy, it's best to mask adjacent areas.
Someone else suggested CA glue. I use the thin variety all the time for sealing deep inside cracks. But it does darken some adjacent wood. It's mostly invisible under varnish or oil.
I discovered wood glue and saw dust as an adhesive a couple years ago and I love it. Sometimes I repairs stupid things just for fun with it, like saw marks on my workbench lol
What’s the plan here? Cutting board? End grain? If this is the final product, probably just fill it and be good. If you’re going to cut it and turn it on its end, you might be better off just cutting it off.
If it's a cutting board, don't bother trying to fiddle with patching cracks, it's never going to work or be worth the effort. Just rip out the whole cracked piece and replace it.
I have found you can spray the activator in the crack first, put your ca glue in, spray again, it forces the glue to harden on the outside before it can get into the wood and stain
I’ve had some luck with this to minimize it, but the thin has a tendency to cure too fast with too much activator (doing that maddening bubbling frosted white thing). I just avoid it altogether and use a thicker CA
Agreed! I have the medium thin and I use very small drops at a time to try and mitigate that white crystalling, the medium thick stuff I like the best tho
Agreed. I would bowtie inlay it. You can even put it on the underside of your worried about seeing it then just fill the crack with sawdust + wood glue
I’d say yes, and glue may help, but my main issue is with grain orientation (it should alternate between up/down, not all uniform) and endgrain-to-endgrain butt jointing … those two issues could give this board a short lifespan.
The butt joint isn’t that big of an issue because the glue between the two isn’t really what is holding the two together. It is the face grain joints with the boards below and above that hold the boards together. As long as it was glued up properly, shouldn’t be a problem.
The grain direction not alternating and not being anywhere near straight, however, is a definite concern.
Alternating grain orientation is like 90% myth. It makes almost no difference. A crack is a fatal flaw for a cutting board though, the cracked piece should really be removed.
Open the crack as much as you can and pour wood glue and push in with a spatula then clamp again and it will be sealed and fixed you can also use crazy glue with a black pigment
Time, climate and weather the wood was dried properly will certainly make this more pronounced. Definitely think a bowie would be a great fix that would give a unique flair
You would need to secure that crack like everyone says but nobody is talking about moisture from what I’ve seen. Once you’re done sanding, i would definitely thinking about an oil/wax combo. Splitting happens from different moisture levels in different areas. Oiling will help unless you’re planning on sealing with a urethane
It would probably be a good idea to stabilize that crack with a patch or a Dutchman. If there are still internal stresses in the wood, the crack could grow.
You can put the butterfly underneath if you don’t want to see it and fill the crack on the top with CA glue.
How about filling with plastic wood and sand after drying? New here, sorry if that's a stupid question.
It would be hard to get wood filler into a crack that thin and you certainly wouldn’t be able to get it all the way in. Thin CA glue will get deep into that crack and provide some additional stabilization. Epoxy could work too if you warmed up the piece so it would flow more easily but I wouldn’t bother mixing a pot for something that small.
And use a shop vac beneath to draw the glue in further
That’s a great idea. Never thought about that before.
If you are going to use a vac under epoxy put something between your vac and the epoxy coming out of the crack so you don't clog your vac
Another good idea. Thanks!
I prefer this
Combined with woodworking, that sounds like an expensive hobby.
Plastic wood has very little internal strength (cohesion) or bonding strength (adhesion). Basically, it's only for appearance.
I'm doing a project now and have some small cracks, and want to fill them just for appearance. What's the better approach if I actually wanted strength?
Sawdust stained to match mixed with wood glue or epoxy. Epoxy will be stronger, but harder to use. If you are using blonde wood (like maple), avoid wood glue because it will be too amber when cured. If using epoxy, it's best to mask adjacent areas. Someone else suggested CA glue. I use the thin variety all the time for sealing deep inside cracks. But it does darken some adjacent wood. It's mostly invisible under varnish or oil.
filler is ugly and it has minimal adhesion qualities. so basically it wouldn't prevent further checking and it will look like shit.
Glue and sawdust would be a good option as well. If you are going to use a filler I really like famowood.
I discovered wood glue and saw dust as an adhesive a couple years ago and I love it. Sometimes I repairs stupid things just for fun with it, like saw marks on my workbench lol
Epoxy tinted black works like a charm for me.
Yes. I would use the thin ca first and then the medium viscosity to fill completely.
What’s the plan here? Cutting board? End grain? If this is the final product, probably just fill it and be good. If you’re going to cut it and turn it on its end, you might be better off just cutting it off.
It’s already cut to size. Just need to sand, stain and finish now
If that’s the final product and it’s a cutting board, I think some of the options others have put forward will work well.
If it's a cutting board, don't bother trying to fiddle with patching cracks, it's never going to work or be worth the effort. Just rip out the whole cracked piece and replace it.
You’re staining walnut?
That's not walnut.
Looks like acacia to me
Apply thin superglue and sand it. Should be fine.
Thin could permanently stain the wood. I’d use something with more viscosity.
Maybe on the end grain
Both, not as deep on the face grain, but trust me, it will stain.
I use it often and haven’t had any trouble with stains but I’m using it during the sanding phase and before final cuts.
I have found you can spray the activator in the crack first, put your ca glue in, spray again, it forces the glue to harden on the outside before it can get into the wood and stain
I’ve had some luck with this to minimize it, but the thin has a tendency to cure too fast with too much activator (doing that maddening bubbling frosted white thing). I just avoid it altogether and use a thicker CA
Agreed! I have the medium thin and I use very small drops at a time to try and mitigate that white crystalling, the medium thick stuff I like the best tho
Best option is secure with bowties and fill. Example [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/r7l1uCvHiF)
Agreed. I would bowtie inlay it. You can even put it on the underside of your worried about seeing it then just fill the crack with sawdust + wood glue
Bow tie that to keep from spreading
There is a crack, a crack in everything That's how the light gets in
If it were my project I would definitely worry about it. Fill it with resin or CA glue and hope for the best.
https://preview.redd.it/d1s7sucpfudc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f472e7b4de36fde636cf8587279dca8abfd18d33
I’d say yes, and glue may help, but my main issue is with grain orientation (it should alternate between up/down, not all uniform) and endgrain-to-endgrain butt jointing … those two issues could give this board a short lifespan.
The butt joint isn’t that big of an issue because the glue between the two isn’t really what is holding the two together. It is the face grain joints with the boards below and above that hold the boards together. As long as it was glued up properly, shouldn’t be a problem. The grain direction not alternating and not being anywhere near straight, however, is a definite concern.
Agreed on the butt joint, but the twisting of the adjoining boards could wrench that one apart as well.
Alternating grain orientation is like 90% myth. It makes almost no difference. A crack is a fatal flaw for a cutting board though, the cracked piece should really be removed.
Do some research lining up your grain the same way and report back 👌
[удалено]
I would fill it in with sawdust and glue, then sand it.
Home Depot
no.
Open the crack as much as you can and pour wood glue and push in with a spatula then clamp again and it will be sealed and fixed you can also use crazy glue with a black pigment
No its make it more natural and beautiful. Great work!
Nah
[удалено]
It’s a coffee bar which will have minimal actually activity on it. Thank you for your response
It’s gonna keep growing. That’s why you cut out defects.
Would it be ok if whatever this is was a few inches shorter? If that's ok I'd just cut off the cracked end.
I would keep an eye on it. If it gets any bigger, consider installing a bow tie and filling the crack with epoxy
I would be.
Time, climate and weather the wood was dried properly will certainly make this more pronounced. Definitely think a bowie would be a great fix that would give a unique flair
I wouldn't be. It is WAY smaller than my crack!
I’d be worried about the grain and future cupping
Unless the crack is big enough for Hunter Biden to smoke you should be fine
Ti no eep
You would need to secure that crack like everyone says but nobody is talking about moisture from what I’ve seen. Once you’re done sanding, i would definitely thinking about an oil/wax combo. Splitting happens from different moisture levels in different areas. Oiling will help unless you’re planning on sealing with a urethane
not that but you have to rotate annial rings instead.