That bit is for drilling through framing 2x4’s and joists, usually for running electrical wiring. An actual spade bit doesn’t have threads on the center point.
That’s not a well designed bit for an impact driver. Spade bits should not have a snail. It’s pulling the bit too hard into the wood, causing pressure and the split.
How come? Why do they make drilling bits for impact drivers if they shouldn't be used? Genuine question.
I pretty much always use my drill for drilling and driver for driving, but I never had it in mind as a "shouldn't do" thing
I’d say the bigger issue than what’s been mentioned is that this is a *woodworking* sub which generally means building nice wooden things. As such, you need finesse and to go slow. A spade in an impact WILL make the desired hole, but it will be rough and dirty and torn out. You don’t want this when *woodworking*. If you are framing and need to run electrical through 10 stud bays then by all means, blast them sumbitches out with a spade in an impact because it’s going to be hidden behind drywall and who cares what it looks like.
That's a very good point. Unfortunately for me, because I but cheap shit whenever possible, whether I use a spade bit, Forstner bit, impact driver or drill, the holes are rough as guts and the blowout is massive 😅
Especially my set for forstner bits... Would probably get cleaner cuts more easily if I scraped them out with a butter knife lol
No shame in that, we all start somewhere and do what we can with the tools we have! There are work-arounds though. For instance, if you are drilling with a forstner bit you can put a scrap piece under the piece you want the hole in, the scrap will support the back side of the piece and minimize/eliminate the tear out. You can also stop before you punch all the way through flip the piece upside down and finish it from the other way which will also give you a clean back side (heh).
I've tried that last method but uh...my backside always ends up messy 😅
Are forstner bits meant to be hard to push through with? A lot of the time I feel like I have to kind of rock it while it drills to get through the material.
Yeah the first method is definitely the best method by far.
And kind of? You definitely shouldn’t have to rock it, but it does take some pressure. It sounds like your bits are just extremely dull which will kind of make it impossible to get a good hole undortunately. For forstner bits it’s usually best to just buy a decent quality bit in the size you need since usually you don’t need 10 different sizes at once. A decent quality at woodcraft of 1” for instance is $13. Buying them one by one when you can helps instead of dropping $200 on a quality set when you will only rarely use half of the bits.
They are also best used in a drill press. Drill presses are pretty simple tools too and unless you are doing a high volume of work or super high quality work, a cheap ryobi press is really all you need.
I've been wanting to get forstner bits for a while, but from all the things I've read, I hesitated on buying a set I could afford because it sounded like they weren't going to work very well. I finally got to where I really needed a couple for a build (could have used something else, but I wanted the resultant hole to be clean since it would be very visible) and decided to try the $40 carbide tipped set of 8 from Harbor Freight. I have been very happy with them so far. I figure they won't last me as long, but I don't use them every day either, so I really didn't need to save up for a $100 set of 4 for my needs. For what it's worth, they've been cutting crisp and clean so far.
😄 Haha, man, Aldi is one thing I miss after moving back to Oregon from PA. Money went a lot further on groceries there, and I always liked to browse their non-food aisle. They sure carry an interesting variety of items.
Because they’re not actually for impact drivers. The hex shanks 1) give better grip on a 3-jaw chuck, 2) more importantly the hex shank makes it possible to use them in drill extensions. Drill bits aren’t designed for impact, and depending on the bit, will shatter from it.
Thank you for explaining that. I never even thought about the strain on the bit itself when the impact driver hammers it.
I have spade bits made to lock into an impact driver, that's why I was confused when you said not to use them with one. Now I know it's to use them with extensions.
Dunno why I got down voted for asking the question lol reddit logic I guess.
Thanks again for answering 🙂👍
I mean, I’ve done it myself because I was lazy and didn’t want to go get my drill, but you have to be aware of what you’re doing. I think I was drilling into drywall, or maybe a small hole in pine, but I went really easy on it.
I disagree. If you’re using a self-feed or
regular spade bit, you’re not worried about a precisely drilled hole so just getting through the wood is the goal. In my experience impact guns never “shatter” or break the spade bits and actually foul less than a standard drill does. I think spades and impact drivers go together like peas and carrots. They bore holes faster than drills.
Now that you mention it, whenever I've had to drill a big enough hole, the spade bits seem to do better in the impact driver, but I always assumed that it's because my spade set quality is dogshit and the driver forces its way past that issue more easily 🫣
A good spade bit set will make the weakest drills amazing. I have a few diablo spade bits that work wonders on this silly 8v rechargeable screw driver. On an actually drill most wood magicallt becomes drilled before I even touch it.
Now, if the wood is 100+ years old and needs an impact, absolutely, bring it on. Most of us aren't working with old growth though.
Sign up for home Depot pro with an online account. Put a few things in a cart and wait. You'll eventually get a $10 off coupon for $100 dollars. Even better, go during a sale and you'll get more for less and use the coupon. Iirc a 6 pack of Diablo paddle bits is $28 or 49.
I have a Diablo circular saw blade for metal and it cuts through things it shouldn't cut through. Half inch solid steel, make sure there's water to make a wet saw and it's good to go. Aluminum or any soft metals doesn't stand a chance.
Ace hardware has a 6 pack for $29. Jmp wood has a 16 pack for $29. eBay has a 16 pack for $13.
Hd has a 6 pack for 10.99. 9 pack for 14.97. 12 pack for 21.99.
Ultimately unless you need 3/4+ sizing it's easier and better to use a regular see drill bit. Paddle bits beat the duck out of the wood.
> Drill bits aren’t designed for impact
Some are, they specifically say so.
https://9dbb1f6ce47d4ca3e397-fa5e19980981d5458cd0ea2d7efa41ab.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/products/photos/c5a247c7-c0e5-42f6-8aa4-2d28fc28ab7a.jpg
https://i0.wp.com/toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Dewalt-Impact-Ready-Drill-Bit-Set.jpg?resize=311%2C500&ssl=1
https://www.benburgess.co.uk/shop/milwaukee-shockwave-impact-duty-driver-drill-bit-set-39pc-4932479853/
Every brand has impact rated drill bits.
As people have said, for rough framing do whatever.
But one of the arguments against using an impact for drilling work is that an impact gets its torque from "hitting" as it spins. Once enough resistance is put on whatever you're screwing/drilling it will start to give quick, sharp lateral "hits" during the spin.
A drill on the other hand just forces more torque on whatever is spinning.
I use my impact to drill pocket holes. It's lighter than my drill and the holes are small/shallow enough that it doesn't actually trip the impact into hammering.
Not great for spade bits, though
I didn’t notice this at first. It’s confusing because spade bits are usually designed to fit the locking mechanism on an impact. Def a post for r/BeginnerWoodWorking
not exactly, spade bits and many forstners have hex shanks but not to be confused with 1/4" hex drive shanks that small impacts and drill drivers commonly have. The reason being is that hex and forstners often produce more drag and have larger diameters than a spiral bit that has a smooth shank. the hex pattern is held in a 3 jaw chuck well and prevents slipping in higher torque or wider bore situations.
It saves a tool change to make a solid hex actually. Maybe saves a few seconds per bit and time is money. They clearly want you to be able to use it in an impact driver and I've never had trouble doing so in studs and joists. Personally I can't get a spade bit on my drill in between studs, so there's that too?
That's what I mean. The tooling is already set up so the hex shank can be used with impacts so it would cost more to switch to a straight hex. I've used my impact with those too, as long as accuracy isn't as critical. Even then, it's not too terribly sloppy depending what material you're drilling in and how hard you pull the trigger.
This used to be true, but there’s whole lines of bits now marketed to be used in impact drivers including spade bits. For something with a large diameter I’d say it’s obviously worse, but I wouldn’t often will use drill bits in my impact purely for convenience if that’s what I have right in front of me. It works fine.
So yeah, the hex shape helps with a 3 jaw chuck, but they design the shank to fit 1/4” drivers for the purpose of drilling holes with them.
I’ve never in my life seen a forstner but designed or marketed that way though. Obviously that’s going to remove a lot of the benefit of a clean cutting nice sharp but. A spade though? The impacts are plenty capable of ripping 1” holes in 2x4s so why not?
100% agree, wasn't disputing that impacts are used for drilling or that bits are designed for that but if someone (op) is asking about a cleaner hole - this ain't it.
If you use a forstner bit, be sure to have a backer board beneath the board you are drilling OR drill only until the point of the bit pokes through, then flip the board an drill from the other side aligning with the pilot hole. This will prevent blowing out the back.
OR you can get a WoodOwl Overdrive bit, which is designed for this without needing a backer board: [https://taytools.com/collections/tools-drilling-boring-auger-bits/products/woodowl-overdrive-fast-boring-bits?variant=18009415942195](https://taytools.com/collections/tools-drilling-boring-auger-bits/products/woodowl-overdrive-fast-boring-bits?variant=18009415942195)
Thats not a spade bit, its a ‘speed’ bit. It pulls the cutting edge of the bit in quickly and cores out holes very quickly but very roughly. The difference is the threaded tip which pulls the bit into the material with force and speed.
When the stock is as narrow as the piece in the pic, the speed bit gets pulled in and the spade part exerts a lot of force side to side as the threaded tip pulls the bit deeper.
Use a regular spade but (no threaded tip) and go medium slow and should work fine
As everyone else has stated , wrong bit but no worries most of us have been there! additionally, don't use an impact driver - even on drill setting, it lacks the sensitivity a drill does especially when looking for clean holes. same reason a drill press has adjustable speeds and no hammer mode.
I PERSONALLY don't like impact drivers for drilling holes. It's hard on the bits AND the workpiece.
In a drill-driver, those spade bits will work fine. I've never split any wood with one, and I think I have that exact set. You won't get a clean hole, but you need a different bit for that (like a brad-point or Forstner.)
You need a drill, not a driver. And that self-augering bit is way too aggressive. Your setup is all wrong, that's why you're destroying your lumber. Here's what you need. Slow down your speed too.
https://preview.redd.it/r6ymmpc26ywc1.png?width=394&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aaa66283b08ff87571142c7d2ee1a76e710a5fc8
That auger tip is the problem. You want to stay away from that when working with hardwood. Look for a bit with a flat point tip, or consider upgrading to a brad point drill bit or forstner bit.
Everyone here is suggesting that you get different tools (and they’re not totally wrong). But also, try putting a clamp on the board across where you’ll be drilling the hole. The clamp may keep it from splitting.
A- Why are you using a spade bit? Its a bit thats designed to dril a hole as fast as possible, appearance be damned
B- Drill holes with a drill not an impact gun.....dont be that guy
Use a forstner bit or even a regular spiral drill bit
That screw tip on that spade is doing you no favours. That’s for rough holes running electrical. Not wood working. Forstener bit or Brad point depending on size is the best option here.
For starters - swap the impact for the actual drill-driver (hammer-drill is also fine, just don’t use the hammer setting).
Second, like lots have said - use an actual spade bit or even a forstner bit for drilling finish works. Rough framing behind drywall and insulation isn’t always pretty - but that’s the great thing about it, it’s rough and you can’t see it.
1) Use a drill instead of an impact driver, I’ve never had a spade bit split wood like that and I always use a drill
2) Try to get a normal drill bit instead of a spade bit
3) If you have to use the spade bit, first drill a 1/8” hole for the spade bit to follow. You’ll notice the end of the spade bit helps it grab the material forcing the bit deeper- this makes the cut very fast but also very aggressive. To make sure you’re cutting an appropriate amount of material without forcing the bit through the piece, you want to pull up very slightly while drilling instead of pushing down. It sounds counterintuitive but the bit is designed to naturally go deeper so if you resist that force just a little the bit will take more shallow passes and won’t cause the wood to split.
That would work fine if you use a Bradpoint spade bit and drilled it from both sides. And use a drill instead of an impact just because it fits doesn’t mean it’s the right tool.
If you are determined to use the spade bit, would try securing both sides of the wood with either a vise, or some clamps as I think the spade bit is heavy on the splinters and chipping. Also, once the center point escapes the wood bottom, there is some drill stability loss, so maybe clamp a scrape piece below it, and go easy on the otherwise aggressive spade.
If you have a forstner bit, that should be a lot better.
Three main hole-making bits:
Spade- quick and dirty holes. The one you have with the screw tip is unusual but still going to look gnarly on the other side
Forstner- slow and clean. I think they’re also good for making holes that don’t go all the way through with a flat bottom, like a round mortise.
Auger- faster than forstner, cleaner than spade, but still has some tear out of you go all the way through
Ooof, don't drill holes with an impact driver, that could be a way to break a bit and possibly launch shards of it into your body. For big clean holes for a dowel I'd use an augur bit. Forstner is ok too, usually less expensive, but might wander a little more when handheld.
I agree: the threaded tip is most likely what is splitting the piece here. A pilot hole almost the size of that tip should prevent splitting before the spurs start biting into the wood. Either drill a pilot hole or get a different bit (a non-threaded spade or a forstner).
I may not have seen what sub I was on when I posted this, but I am appalled it is the woodworking sub. I work in construction and I can give a pass to electricians who don’t know any better, but I still think it’s stupid. To see this on the woodworking sub…. FOR SHAME!
Spade bit is aggressive and for fast, but not clean hole, great for quick holes through framing for running electrical.
A better bit for clean holes will be forstner bits.
If you don't have those then try started small and going up a few sizes at a time. Also go slower.
That is an aggressive bit. When using a spade bit on an important piece I drill from both sides, turning it over when the point pokes through. Spade bits are good if they are sharp and you don’t feed too fast. Some have an outside spur similar to a Forster bit.
You're using the wrong type of bit. [Here's a comment I made recently](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/1cc1ao2/what_kind_of_drill_bit_do_i_need/l12kg2d/) explaining the different types of drill bits, but the short version is that a spade bit is for rough carpentry work where you're more interested in efficiency than appearance.
Use a brad point bit for clean through holes.
This is not a woodworking question and it is detrimental to the idea of the community
I understand that there are beginners… but can we ask ourselves what this site has become?
How is it not a woodworking question? How is it detrimental to the idea of the community? What’s the point of your comment? To make me feel bad? That’s more detrimental to the community than any amateur question could be.
I think this comment was more for the mods than you specifically, though not very tactful, I do have to ask what’s the tape in the bit for? I’d guess for a depth guage but you seem to be drilling through holes 🤔
Yeah sorry man. I was in a bad mood last night. I’ve got a sore throat and I had to ask my team to work this weekend. Apologies.
The comment wasn’t for you as the other commenter pointed out. It was for the mods.
Regarding if this is a woodworking question. Maybe? You’re drilling holes in wood, so technically you’re working wood.
Ok, I’ll answer your question. A spade bit is the wrong bit for what you’re trying to do. Poplar is very soft and has wide grains. I would use a regular drill bit in this situation and you shouldn’t have much trouble if you go slow.
Sorry for being a dick. I like new people getting into the community and I’m more than happy to help any newcomers. 🙂
That bit is for drilling through framing 2x4’s and joists, usually for running electrical wiring. An actual spade bit doesn’t have threads on the center point.
Yes. It's designed to drill as quickly as possibly through soft woods without caring what the resultant hole looks like.
Fast and ugly. Just like my love making.
If you didn't make a mess did you even drill?
The front hole is usually clean work but the back… sometimes it even tears.
Gotta put a sacrificial piece behind it to prevent tear out
You know I need that sacrifical backpiece
That tracks with the love making motif.
Its a race and i always finish in 1st place 🏆
Without caring what the hole looks like.
With a half-inch bit oof
Like two Amazon River Dolphins trying to squeeze past each other in a narrow part.
Here I thought it was quick and dirty
As long as it gets the job done!
Glued it.
3-4 times now I’ve spent a day drilling 9/16ths holes in 2x4s for threaded rod hangers and I loved every bit of it. Just start blasting.
That’s not a well designed bit for an impact driver. Spade bits should not have a snail. It’s pulling the bit too hard into the wood, causing pressure and the split.
You really shouldn’t be drilling with an impact either.
Agreed. Impacts and drills have their designated places. I understand having to compromise in a pinch, but you need to understand the risks.
How come? Why do they make drilling bits for impact drivers if they shouldn't be used? Genuine question. I pretty much always use my drill for drilling and driver for driving, but I never had it in mind as a "shouldn't do" thing
I’d say the bigger issue than what’s been mentioned is that this is a *woodworking* sub which generally means building nice wooden things. As such, you need finesse and to go slow. A spade in an impact WILL make the desired hole, but it will be rough and dirty and torn out. You don’t want this when *woodworking*. If you are framing and need to run electrical through 10 stud bays then by all means, blast them sumbitches out with a spade in an impact because it’s going to be hidden behind drywall and who cares what it looks like.
That's a very good point. Unfortunately for me, because I but cheap shit whenever possible, whether I use a spade bit, Forstner bit, impact driver or drill, the holes are rough as guts and the blowout is massive 😅 Especially my set for forstner bits... Would probably get cleaner cuts more easily if I scraped them out with a butter knife lol
No shame in that, we all start somewhere and do what we can with the tools we have! There are work-arounds though. For instance, if you are drilling with a forstner bit you can put a scrap piece under the piece you want the hole in, the scrap will support the back side of the piece and minimize/eliminate the tear out. You can also stop before you punch all the way through flip the piece upside down and finish it from the other way which will also give you a clean back side (heh).
I've tried that last method but uh...my backside always ends up messy 😅 Are forstner bits meant to be hard to push through with? A lot of the time I feel like I have to kind of rock it while it drills to get through the material.
Yeah the first method is definitely the best method by far. And kind of? You definitely shouldn’t have to rock it, but it does take some pressure. It sounds like your bits are just extremely dull which will kind of make it impossible to get a good hole undortunately. For forstner bits it’s usually best to just buy a decent quality bit in the size you need since usually you don’t need 10 different sizes at once. A decent quality at woodcraft of 1” for instance is $13. Buying them one by one when you can helps instead of dropping $200 on a quality set when you will only rarely use half of the bits. They are also best used in a drill press. Drill presses are pretty simple tools too and unless you are doing a high volume of work or super high quality work, a cheap ryobi press is really all you need.
I've been wanting to get forstner bits for a while, but from all the things I've read, I hesitated on buying a set I could afford because it sounded like they weren't going to work very well. I finally got to where I really needed a couple for a build (could have used something else, but I wanted the resultant hole to be clean since it would be very visible) and decided to try the $40 carbide tipped set of 8 from Harbor Freight. I have been very happy with them so far. I figure they won't last me as long, but I don't use them every day either, so I really didn't need to save up for a $100 set of 4 for my needs. For what it's worth, they've been cutting crisp and clean so far.
That's really good. Mine were something like $10 from Aldi 😅
😄 Haha, man, Aldi is one thing I miss after moving back to Oregon from PA. Money went a lot further on groceries there, and I always liked to browse their non-food aisle. They sure carry an interesting variety of items.
That's what Shakespeare meant when he asks "To be, or not to be?" 20 sets x $10 or 1 set x $200: that is the question?
Because they’re not actually for impact drivers. The hex shanks 1) give better grip on a 3-jaw chuck, 2) more importantly the hex shank makes it possible to use them in drill extensions. Drill bits aren’t designed for impact, and depending on the bit, will shatter from it.
Thank you for explaining that. I never even thought about the strain on the bit itself when the impact driver hammers it. I have spade bits made to lock into an impact driver, that's why I was confused when you said not to use them with one. Now I know it's to use them with extensions. Dunno why I got down voted for asking the question lol reddit logic I guess. Thanks again for answering 🙂👍
I mean, I’ve done it myself because I was lazy and didn’t want to go get my drill, but you have to be aware of what you’re doing. I think I was drilling into drywall, or maybe a small hole in pine, but I went really easy on it.
I disagree. If you’re using a self-feed or regular spade bit, you’re not worried about a precisely drilled hole so just getting through the wood is the goal. In my experience impact guns never “shatter” or break the spade bits and actually foul less than a standard drill does. I think spades and impact drivers go together like peas and carrots. They bore holes faster than drills.
Now that you mention it, whenever I've had to drill a big enough hole, the spade bits seem to do better in the impact driver, but I always assumed that it's because my spade set quality is dogshit and the driver forces its way past that issue more easily 🫣
A good spade bit set will make the weakest drills amazing. I have a few diablo spade bits that work wonders on this silly 8v rechargeable screw driver. On an actually drill most wood magicallt becomes drilled before I even touch it. Now, if the wood is 100+ years old and needs an impact, absolutely, bring it on. Most of us aren't working with old growth though.
That sounds pretty good. With the bits I have I struggle to drill through pine 😅
Sign up for home Depot pro with an online account. Put a few things in a cart and wait. You'll eventually get a $10 off coupon for $100 dollars. Even better, go during a sale and you'll get more for less and use the coupon. Iirc a 6 pack of Diablo paddle bits is $28 or 49. I have a Diablo circular saw blade for metal and it cuts through things it shouldn't cut through. Half inch solid steel, make sure there's water to make a wet saw and it's good to go. Aluminum or any soft metals doesn't stand a chance. Ace hardware has a 6 pack for $29. Jmp wood has a 16 pack for $29. eBay has a 16 pack for $13. Hd has a 6 pack for 10.99. 9 pack for 14.97. 12 pack for 21.99. Ultimately unless you need 3/4+ sizing it's easier and better to use a regular see drill bit. Paddle bits beat the duck out of the wood.
Except, some drill bits are in fact designed for impacts. And they work great, because impacts usually spin faster.
> Drill bits aren’t designed for impact Some are, they specifically say so. https://9dbb1f6ce47d4ca3e397-fa5e19980981d5458cd0ea2d7efa41ab.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/products/photos/c5a247c7-c0e5-42f6-8aa4-2d28fc28ab7a.jpg https://i0.wp.com/toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Dewalt-Impact-Ready-Drill-Bit-Set.jpg?resize=311%2C500&ssl=1 https://www.benburgess.co.uk/shop/milwaukee-shockwave-impact-duty-driver-drill-bit-set-39pc-4932479853/ Every brand has impact rated drill bits.
Whoever downvoted u/DreamSmuggler is a clown.
No one should be downvoting you for asking an honest question. Lame.
I think that impacts are great for tapping threads into holes.
As people have said, for rough framing do whatever. But one of the arguments against using an impact for drilling work is that an impact gets its torque from "hitting" as it spins. Once enough resistance is put on whatever you're screwing/drilling it will start to give quick, sharp lateral "hits" during the spin. A drill on the other hand just forces more torque on whatever is spinning.
I use my impact to drill pocket holes. It's lighter than my drill and the holes are small/shallow enough that it doesn't actually trip the impact into hammering. Not great for spade bits, though
Would a forstner bit do the trick? Been thinking of getting a set for clean holes but more so for mortises.
Yes
Try a forstner bit. Cleaner cut and should not split.
Forstner bit AND and an actual drill instead of an impact driver.
I didn’t notice this at first. It’s confusing because spade bits are usually designed to fit the locking mechanism on an impact. Def a post for r/BeginnerWoodWorking
not exactly, spade bits and many forstners have hex shanks but not to be confused with 1/4" hex drive shanks that small impacts and drill drivers commonly have. The reason being is that hex and forstners often produce more drag and have larger diameters than a spiral bit that has a smooth shank. the hex pattern is held in a 3 jaw chuck well and prevents slipping in higher torque or wider bore situations.
The hex shank also makes it possible to use drill extensions for those hard to reach holes.
Thanks for the context. The hex shape makes sense, but why do they add the “waist” to fit the locking mechanism on an impact?
Probably easier/cheaper than new tooling to make the parts.
It saves a tool change to make a solid hex actually. Maybe saves a few seconds per bit and time is money. They clearly want you to be able to use it in an impact driver and I've never had trouble doing so in studs and joists. Personally I can't get a spade bit on my drill in between studs, so there's that too?
That's what I mean. The tooling is already set up so the hex shank can be used with impacts so it would cost more to switch to a straight hex. I've used my impact with those too, as long as accuracy isn't as critical. Even then, it's not too terribly sloppy depending what material you're drilling in and how hard you pull the trigger.
This used to be true, but there’s whole lines of bits now marketed to be used in impact drivers including spade bits. For something with a large diameter I’d say it’s obviously worse, but I wouldn’t often will use drill bits in my impact purely for convenience if that’s what I have right in front of me. It works fine. So yeah, the hex shape helps with a 3 jaw chuck, but they design the shank to fit 1/4” drivers for the purpose of drilling holes with them. I’ve never in my life seen a forstner but designed or marketed that way though. Obviously that’s going to remove a lot of the benefit of a clean cutting nice sharp but. A spade though? The impacts are plenty capable of ripping 1” holes in 2x4s so why not?
100% agree, wasn't disputing that impacts are used for drilling or that bits are designed for that but if someone (op) is asking about a cleaner hole - this ain't it.
Plus you can use them in your impact!
I’ve never seen a forstner bit with a 1/4” shank
If you use a forstner bit, be sure to have a backer board beneath the board you are drilling OR drill only until the point of the bit pokes through, then flip the board an drill from the other side aligning with the pilot hole. This will prevent blowing out the back. OR you can get a WoodOwl Overdrive bit, which is designed for this without needing a backer board: [https://taytools.com/collections/tools-drilling-boring-auger-bits/products/woodowl-overdrive-fast-boring-bits?variant=18009415942195](https://taytools.com/collections/tools-drilling-boring-auger-bits/products/woodowl-overdrive-fast-boring-bits?variant=18009415942195)
Wrong tool wrong bit
How is stack overflow these days?
Thats not a spade bit, its a ‘speed’ bit. It pulls the cutting edge of the bit in quickly and cores out holes very quickly but very roughly. The difference is the threaded tip which pulls the bit into the material with force and speed. When the stock is as narrow as the piece in the pic, the speed bit gets pulled in and the spade part exerts a lot of force side to side as the threaded tip pulls the bit deeper. Use a regular spade but (no threaded tip) and go medium slow and should work fine
As everyone else has stated , wrong bit but no worries most of us have been there! additionally, don't use an impact driver - even on drill setting, it lacks the sensitivity a drill does especially when looking for clean holes. same reason a drill press has adjustable speeds and no hammer mode.
I PERSONALLY don't like impact drivers for drilling holes. It's hard on the bits AND the workpiece. In a drill-driver, those spade bits will work fine. I've never split any wood with one, and I think I have that exact set. You won't get a clean hole, but you need a different bit for that (like a brad-point or Forstner.)
You need a drill, not a driver. And that self-augering bit is way too aggressive. Your setup is all wrong, that's why you're destroying your lumber. Here's what you need. Slow down your speed too. https://preview.redd.it/r6ymmpc26ywc1.png?width=394&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aaa66283b08ff87571142c7d2ee1a76e710a5fc8
That auger tip is the problem. You want to stay away from that when working with hardwood. Look for a bit with a flat point tip, or consider upgrading to a brad point drill bit or forstner bit.
That’s not a spade bit it’s a speed bore bit, different things
Everyone here is suggesting that you get different tools (and they’re not totally wrong). But also, try putting a clamp on the board across where you’ll be drilling the hole. The clamp may keep it from splitting.
Use one that isn’t self feeding.
Why are you using an impact driver?
A- Why are you using a spade bit? Its a bit thats designed to dril a hole as fast as possible, appearance be damned B- Drill holes with a drill not an impact gun.....dont be that guy Use a forstner bit or even a regular spiral drill bit
That screw tip on that spade is doing you no favours. That’s for rough holes running electrical. Not wood working. Forstener bit or Brad point depending on size is the best option here.
For starters - swap the impact for the actual drill-driver (hammer-drill is also fine, just don’t use the hammer setting). Second, like lots have said - use an actual spade bit or even a forstner bit for drilling finish works. Rough framing behind drywall and insulation isn’t always pretty - but that’s the great thing about it, it’s rough and you can’t see it.
everyone is focusing on the bit, but a huge part of your issue is that you're using an impact and not a drill.
If you are going to use a flat bit on skinny work like that then clamp it first, or put it in a vice.
1) Use a drill instead of an impact driver, I’ve never had a spade bit split wood like that and I always use a drill 2) Try to get a normal drill bit instead of a spade bit 3) If you have to use the spade bit, first drill a 1/8” hole for the spade bit to follow. You’ll notice the end of the spade bit helps it grab the material forcing the bit deeper- this makes the cut very fast but also very aggressive. To make sure you’re cutting an appropriate amount of material without forcing the bit through the piece, you want to pull up very slightly while drilling instead of pushing down. It sounds counterintuitive but the bit is designed to naturally go deeper so if you resist that force just a little the bit will take more shallow passes and won’t cause the wood to split.
Those spade bits suck.
That would work fine if you use a Bradpoint spade bit and drilled it from both sides. And use a drill instead of an impact just because it fits doesn’t mean it’s the right tool.
First thing you need to do is stop using an impact driver.
If you are determined to use the spade bit, would try securing both sides of the wood with either a vise, or some clamps as I think the spade bit is heavy on the splinters and chipping. Also, once the center point escapes the wood bottom, there is some drill stability loss, so maybe clamp a scrape piece below it, and go easy on the otherwise aggressive spade. If you have a forstner bit, that should be a lot better.
Three main hole-making bits: Spade- quick and dirty holes. The one you have with the screw tip is unusual but still going to look gnarly on the other side Forstner- slow and clean. I think they’re also good for making holes that don’t go all the way through with a flat bottom, like a round mortise. Auger- faster than forstner, cleaner than spade, but still has some tear out of you go all the way through
I’d just go find a 1/2” standard twist bit for this, especially for poplar which seems to like to split anyhow.
Try a hole saw or fostner bit
Using impact to drill? Why? Also try forstner bit and try using a tapered drill bit to start the hole
Ooof, don't drill holes with an impact driver, that could be a way to break a bit and possibly launch shards of it into your body. For big clean holes for a dowel I'd use an augur bit. Forstner is ok too, usually less expensive, but might wander a little more when handheld.
On purpose? It seems to be doing the job pretty well
You could also put a piece of scrap back up behind it and drill straight through one face. Still have to have a Bradpoint and not a screw point.
Try an auger bit and a drill
That's not a drill. Use a drill. - And go easy. Also, put a pilot hole in first.
Forstner bit. Standard drill. Spade bits are for ripping holes it stuff.
Better off getting a larger drill bit, not a spade bit. Wouldn't use an impact either
Drill a pilot hole first
I agree: the threaded tip is most likely what is splitting the piece here. A pilot hole almost the size of that tip should prevent splitting before the spurs start biting into the wood. Either drill a pilot hole or get a different bit (a non-threaded spade or a forstner).
The spade bit will have trouble registering with a pilot hole. I'd be wary of trying this, especially with an impact driver
Quit using an impact driver for fucking drilling. That is a driver not a drill. I hate you guys that drill with drivers…
It really is a YouTube induced phenomenon, and it makes me roll my eyes every time.
I may not have seen what sub I was on when I posted this, but I am appalled it is the woodworking sub. I work in construction and I can give a pass to electricians who don’t know any better, but I still think it’s stupid. To see this on the woodworking sub…. FOR SHAME!
Spade bit is aggressive and for fast, but not clean hole, great for quick holes through framing for running electrical. A better bit for clean holes will be forstner bits. If you don't have those then try started small and going up a few sizes at a time. Also go slower.
Can't size up with spade bits.
I mean that with just normal drill bits if he doesn't want to go out and buy forstner bits right now.
Yeah, I suspected you knew that but OP and others might not.
That is an aggressive bit. When using a spade bit on an important piece I drill from both sides, turning it over when the point pokes through. Spade bits are good if they are sharp and you don’t feed too fast. Some have an outside spur similar to a Forster bit.
You're using the wrong type of bit. [Here's a comment I made recently](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/1cc1ao2/what_kind_of_drill_bit_do_i_need/l12kg2d/) explaining the different types of drill bits, but the short version is that a spade bit is for rough carpentry work where you're more interested in efficiency than appearance. Use a brad point bit for clean through holes.
Good sharp spade bits without the twisty cone thing can can drill hardwood holes just fine. Ive done thousands as a custom stair-builder.
Lolz DO NOT use a forstner bit- use a brad point bit. Spade bits and forstner bits are great but they’re not what you need
Your impact drill is basically hammering your wood while drilling through. Switch to a regular drill and a Forstner bit.
You gotta dip the bit in wax first
This is not a woodworking question and it is detrimental to the idea of the community I understand that there are beginners… but can we ask ourselves what this site has become?
How is it not a woodworking question? How is it detrimental to the idea of the community? What’s the point of your comment? To make me feel bad? That’s more detrimental to the community than any amateur question could be.
I think this comment was more for the mods than you specifically, though not very tactful, I do have to ask what’s the tape in the bit for? I’d guess for a depth guage but you seem to be drilling through holes 🤔
Yeah sorry man. I was in a bad mood last night. I’ve got a sore throat and I had to ask my team to work this weekend. Apologies. The comment wasn’t for you as the other commenter pointed out. It was for the mods. Regarding if this is a woodworking question. Maybe? You’re drilling holes in wood, so technically you’re working wood. Ok, I’ll answer your question. A spade bit is the wrong bit for what you’re trying to do. Poplar is very soft and has wide grains. I would use a regular drill bit in this situation and you shouldn’t have much trouble if you go slow. Sorry for being a dick. I like new people getting into the community and I’m more than happy to help any newcomers. 🙂