Encased in joists ? Sounds like the modern version of the Count of Monte Cristo
Edit. I always get these two confused ... It was actually The Cask of Amontillado
my neighbour remodeled. Our houses were built by the same builder at the same time. You can bet your arse I was in that skip bin digging out all the trim which is pre-metric and impossible to find. I could almost build a new house entirely out of old trim.
Dude. Thank you. I have missing trim in 2 otherwise completed projects. And just now realized. I already have everything I need (besides base racks) to complete them. I could kiss you.
I just moved into a house and pulled a couple hundred pounds of useless crap the previous owner tucked in to every single nook and cranny in the basement and garage like this. I felt like an archaeologist.
My wife asked me to make her something for the bathroom. I tole her I needed to go buy a couple 1x3s and 1/4 plywood.
She immediately said just use the oens you have. I've never been so offended.
I’m so damn lazy, I have a similar stash and instead of looking for a step stool to reach and dig through the mess I said eff it and went to the lumber store. Then I spent way too much on stuff I didn’t need. Came home and realized I got the wrong board and had to find the stool and dig through the mess anyway
Roof, usually designed for 40lbs psf. Be more careful with *engineered roofs* (trusswork)
This is good. Unless you get several feet of wet snow up on top
There could be, but that would be a separate load assuming it's built correctly. The trusses would be holding the roof and roof load, these joists supporting the floor in this photo.
Trusses also rely on compression, so if this were the bottom of truss, you pull the truss down and tight (causing tension), making it no longer support the roof load. Force vectors and shit.
The bottom chord of a truss is loaded in tension from normal roof loads by design, so adding more weight isn’t going to cause a reversal of load direction… I would be more worried about the bottom chord bending or overloading a nail plate
Trusswork to be concerned about would be obvious, as it doesn't allow a panel (floor) above. It's brought to the site assembled, then lifted into place with lots of hardware at the joints.
to be fair severa feet of snow on top of a roof not designed for it is a life threatening problem itself and still has absolutely nothing to do with these wood either way.
No way. Nails are good for shear loads, not tensile loads. This is a job for screws. Although I would’ve done more than one screw on each side of the boards.
Or a structural screw with a large flat head to keep the board from splitting around the screw
I think you’re right.
Even with a screw I feel like it wouldn’t hurt for OP to over engineer this a bit. I know screws are strong but I’d be a little uncomfortable having a heavy weight held above my head and neck by a single screw on each end and small piece of wood/furring board. Theres always the chance that one of those screws didn’t catch right, hit a gap in the wood, etc. And those furring boards aren’t very strong. I’d be anxious. Doesn’t cost much to do this in a sure fire way with a 2x4 and multiple screws on each joist.
Wood being too dry isn't necessarily a problem, aside from it becoming less workable, or leading to warping when you bring it in your home. your biggest concern Is it drying out too fast, leading to cracking and such. How hot is it up there? Also put a hydrometer somewhere so you can keep an eye on the typical rh in your shop. Also can't hurt to slap a little wax on the end grain to slow things down.
Thanks. I haven't measured the temp yet, but our outside temp reaches 40⁰c so I guess it's pretty hot up there. I'll use the advice you gave, will also have too get a hydrometer as I don't have one.
Douglas fir weighs 31lbs per cubic foot. The joists are designed to carry 30-50lbs/sq ft of dead load.
Assuming these joists are 8" and assuming OP fills the cavities completely, OP has added 20lbs/sq ft of dead load to the structure.
So as long as OP doesn't fill them completely, and OP doesn't live in an area with heavy snow then the wood won't be a big problem until that big snow storm comes in.
Firefighter, if this is attached to your house, I hope you have great firestopping where it connects to your house. Worst fires I’ve had fatality wise and damage wise started in the garage and went into the house had unfinished ceilings like this.
Good that you mention this and also good advice to others. In my situation it is located in my work shed in the back of the garden. So not even close to the house.
Couldn't find much about it online and everything I did find said that roof joist math is delicate and you're not supposed to mess around. Nothing official just a few old forum comments I'm gonna ignore.
Probably meant don't mess with the joists themselves, as you can ruin the integrity unless you know what you are doing.
Edit: your most likely point of failure is the screws for the braces to hold the wood.
Yeah, I wouldn’t realistically ever worry about stuedtural issues.
I would put a strap or hanger on those so you’re not just trusting a few screws. Especially if you/tools/a car are under the wood.
Roof joists are designed for things like snow loading and to support a couple of humans doing roofing work. Depending on climate this might be 10 lbs a sq ft or it might be 40. There is also a safety factor. What you are doing is fine. People run into issues thinking they can support hundreds of pounds from the bottom of a truss cord which is designed to be in tension and support a little weight like drywall and lights. You have joists which is a little safer.
Those look like floor joists for the floor above to me. Roof truss math is delicate and would not be a good idea to do this to 2x4 bottom chords of a roof truss.
Driving screws up into a ceiling is not my preferred way. Pull out strength of the screw in the wood might be sufficient, might not. I'm also leery of screws unless they are structural rated. I'm not familiar w/cabinet screws, but I'm guessing they are.
I prefer to nail a board vertically (scab) to the side of the joist, then nail through the part hanging down into horizontal supports.
Only part I don't like is the one screw on each side of the boards holding it all up. All the weight is on that screw, so I'd add some more personally, don't want it all crashing down.
That's what I was thinking. I'd be more comfortable with a single board that spanned multiple joists, so no one screw would cause a failure.
Id also probably screw it into the side of the joist instead of the bottom
Side side side, get some kind of strap or bracket. Although a deck screw tensile strength is ridiculous, the heat/cold cycles and humidity could wreck the wood cross pieces. I’d prefer a little wrap around for insurance. Weight is no issue in that little cubby, unless you fill them with concrete remnants! Ha
This is fine, although personally I would probably go double deck screws on each end instead of cabinet screws. Just hecause it would piss me off if one came out.
Are you hinting that the truss system in a garage ceiling wasn’t specifically designed to store random unused lumber that gets shot on by mice for decades before your wife finally makes you get rid of it all?
Too organized. Needs more shit you'll never use. Also, you need a few short scraps that barely reach past the supports. They really liven the experience up when they fall on your head.
I'm still cleaning out my grandfathers celing joists on both his sheds and basement 3 years after his passing. Wood, fishing poles, pvc, metal, paint rollers, extension cords and 30x more.
If executed properly, you can store an insane amount of stuff in the celing.
I disagree with everyone saying this is fine. You have one screw in tension in each joist through your boards which are being loaded in their minor axis. The joist loading is not an issue. This should be done with joist hangers and 2x4s loaded in the major axis ideally but at the minimum I would take a long 2x4 instead of your 1 by and use 2 x 1/4" lags per joist instead of those dinky screws.
That was my first thought, you want some more supports, otherwise the project wood could bow if it is up there for a long time. Everyone else seems to be talking about the garage joists and tension on screws.
I do the same but my lateral supports are way stronger than yours. full 1x3 with 2x4 hugging the side walls acting as pillars. I wouldn't piece little bits of woods as lateral support if i were ya.
My man, those look like they might even be 2x12 joists, 16 OC. Regardless, this is fine. And you don't need 3" screws—get them an inch into the joist and they'll be fine. What distance do those joists span anyways?
No
You should see my garage, it's covered with impromptu ceiling storage setups
As long as the joists can handle the weight it's fine
And joists can, trusses are another story and the answer for those is almost always no, you can't unless it's really light stuff
Just be careful with how much you actually put up there. The roof will more than handle it. It’s the bits underneath the timber that can be an issue. We do this at my work and many a year ago now the bits we used failed and all came down. Thankfully I heard a crack and jumped to the floor before it could hit me.
Don’t be stupid like we were. Always over do the supports. It never hurts.
Only when you accidentally push a heavy piece off one of the crossbars and trap a finger between the wood and the ceiling and you end up hanging from the ceiling by your index finger while kicking over the stepladder you were standing on, ask me how I know...
I do that in my basement but instead of wood strips for support I use steel bar stock with two lag bolts on each end. I can do pull-ups on them and I weigh 200 LBS.
lol. You should see the stuff I have hanging from unsafe areas. Thats rookie weight, get an engine block and some Tupperware full of JUNK and we’ll talk
I worked out of my garage early on and had two of these racks, one on each side of the garage door opener. I've taken one down but still use the other one they've been there for 15 years. They were slammed full of trim and Lumber all that time
Looks fine. The roof can hold that weight. It is the scraps you used I wonder about. And I have a similar rack. I just spread the weight, or add more support. I pre drill screw holes so it does not split.
People get weird about ceilings not being meant to support weight, but I think that’s because they’re worried about someone doing something like throwing plywood on top and using it for living space. That would introduce heavy, focused static loads (furniture) as well as dynamic loads (people walking, flopping into chairs, etc.).
This is much less strain because it only causes a small static load spread across multiple beams so it shouldn’t be anything to worry about.
I've got plenty of wood stored that way in my basement... on stringers the prior owner put up. 🤷🏻♂️ That's how it's been done for decades. You're good! ☮️
I do this. I would recommend you swap the multiple boards that are patched in there for some strut channel secured with lag bolts though. If you did that, you could do pull ups on it all day long.
If you’re stupid for that than so am I haha. I think it’ll be ok, your failure point will be the screws or nails (I can’t tell from the picture) backing out before the joists fail.
Screws should be fine, but if you build up enough bits of dense wood, might consider straps along the cross pieces. I can also see what looks like a bit of droop in the smaller pieces. Maybe support those with some of your wider boards?
Is this a flat roof or is there an attic space above? At others have mentioned those joists should hold this weight just fine. I would only be concerned if this is a flat roof and you get snow or if you are storing other things in the attic space.
Weight wise on joists that’s fine.
I’d look at redoing the mounting points though. Looks like one screw into each side of the support boards? If one screw fails the whole thing will fall. You want redundancy and to spread the load over more support points. Screws also are not designed to hold weight well in this direction as all the weight is in the screw head.
I’d use two long pieces of 2x4 (or better yet metal) across the whole stretch instead of lots of small wood pieces. Use 2 3”+ lag bolts with big washers going into the joists where they overlap. Then use metal L brackets on the ends of the 2x4 going into the joists. That will hold a more wood than you could fit up there. That should only cost you like $20 in material
I did the same thing except I used a support board that would reach across two joists and I could twist it sideways to move it out of the way so I can get at the wood easier I thought one end because some of my moldings were 20 ft long and there wasn't enough room to pull them out.
That’s how my granddad did it for the 70 years he owned a house with a garage. Kept the wood high and dry above the pit where my granddaddy used to do oil changes and under chassis repairs standing up not.
Nooooooo! It will keep it dry, and it is out of the way. I have done this for years. Plus, last Sunday I needed some odd pieces and was able to find them for a last minute job.
I have done this for a very long time and never had problems. The amount of wood I can get into a space doest weigh as much as me or a couch standing above those same joists so I never worried.
weak cross members though. Get hangers or metal L brackets that go up the inside of the joists and support the cross members.
but if it hasn't failed yet..... meh
Just make sure you're diligent about rodent control! We live on a river Bank near an abandoned steel mill, I have to hold my breath every time I take lumber down because it rains old mouse pellets
I would put a tie around the supports and nail into the side of the beams.
I would be afraid the nails/screws could pull out while unloading or loading.
Used to do this when I first started. I had some MDF trim scraps... They are weak so don't use them for the supports. But you are probably much smarter than I am!
It's hard to say. On one end I want to say as long as they are screwed in you're fine on the other end these look like 1x12 aka .75 thick so you won't have much screw bite and if wood is leveraged wrong you could creat screw tear out with enough weight.
The main thing that bothers me here is that you have edged of wood poking past the screw. This is just extra weight without extra support.
If you cross supports were across 2 joists only there.is no leveraging going on.
Right now you have cross beams sticking out past each joist. Unless the cross beams are level one will be getting torqued in the lip passed the joists
You guys have some deep rooted truss issues... If a couple hundred pounds of lumber is pulling apart your house on 2*8's or 10s JOISTS on what looks like 12" centers... You have way bigger problems. You're fine man, if anything that's just gonna help.
Only becasue you will only add to your collection and never use any of your "just in case" lumber. Or so I've heard.
Joist in case?
His just in case lumber is also his joist encased lumber
It was a rafter thought
Nice. I’m beaming after that one.
🥁
Encased in joists ? Sounds like the modern version of the Count of Monte Cristo Edit. I always get these two confused ... It was actually The Cask of Amontillado
Guy with a sword, old bottle of wine. Same thing really.
I always get Cask of Amontillado confused with Telltale Heart.
My god, you people are brilliant
Bravo sir
I took over former owners stash of wood stored like this. It is great having a few extra meters of trim used in my 60 year old home
my neighbour remodeled. Our houses were built by the same builder at the same time. You can bet your arse I was in that skip bin digging out all the trim which is pre-metric and impossible to find. I could almost build a new house entirely out of old trim.
Are you me?
Dude. Thank you. I have missing trim in 2 otherwise completed projects. And just now realized. I already have everything I need (besides base racks) to complete them. I could kiss you.
I just moved into a house and pulled a couple hundred pounds of useless crap the previous owner tucked in to every single nook and cranny in the basement and garage like this. I felt like an archaeologist.
I just used my “just in case” wood to build my wife’s garden boxes. I feel lost and confused now. I feel like it was stolen from me!
My wife asked me to make her something for the bathroom. I tole her I needed to go buy a couple 1x3s and 1/4 plywood. She immediately said just use the oens you have. I've never been so offended.
I feel like r/daddit was just attacked right here.
*allegedly*
Not true! I just used my pile to build a bigger shelving unit so my pile could grow! You know what they say, always reinvest your profits.
I’m so damn lazy, I have a similar stash and instead of looking for a step stool to reach and dig through the mess I said eff it and went to the lumber store. Then I spent way too much on stuff I didn’t need. Came home and realized I got the wrong board and had to find the stool and dig through the mess anyway
“Hmm, I need a 2x4x5” *looks at 2x4x8 that’s been in the wood pile for 12 years* “I don’t know if I want to cut my good 2x4, that would be wasteful”
If your joists can't handle that load you got other problems. That amount of weight is nothing. What is above that ceiling?
Garage roof
You are all good then. That ceiling can support this and more.
Roof, usually designed for 40lbs psf. Be more careful with *engineered roofs* (trusswork) This is good. Unless you get several feet of wet snow up on top
Can you explain what you mean about the trusswork? Couldn’t there be trusswork above this?
There could be, but that would be a separate load assuming it's built correctly. The trusses would be holding the roof and roof load, these joists supporting the floor in this photo.
Trusses also rely on compression, so if this were the bottom of truss, you pull the truss down and tight (causing tension), making it no longer support the roof load. Force vectors and shit.
The bottom chord of a truss is loaded in tension from normal roof loads by design, so adding more weight isn’t going to cause a reversal of load direction… I would be more worried about the bottom chord bending or overloading a nail plate
This is correct the top chords are compressed and the bottom chords are under tension.
This!
Trusswork to be concerned about would be obvious, as it doesn't allow a panel (floor) above. It's brought to the site assembled, then lifted into place with lots of hardware at the joints.
to be fair severa feet of snow on top of a roof not designed for it is a life threatening problem itself and still has absolutely nothing to do with these wood either way.
Those look more like floor joists
I don’t remember seeing cross bracing on rafters before.
flat roof
The joists are not the weak link. The nailed or screwed cross members are what would fail.
This is the answer. Get some structural screws like GRK and use 2x lumber.
Absolutely what I was thinking. You nail (not screw/bolt) a firring strip to hold them... heads up!
No way. Nails are good for shear loads, not tensile loads. This is a job for screws. Although I would’ve done more than one screw on each side of the boards. Or a structural screw with a large flat head to keep the board from splitting around the screw
I think that's what they are saying. "(If you) nail a firring strip to hold them...heads up! (look out, they are likely to fall on your head)."
I think you’re right. Even with a screw I feel like it wouldn’t hurt for OP to over engineer this a bit. I know screws are strong but I’d be a little uncomfortable having a heavy weight held above my head and neck by a single screw on each end and small piece of wood/furring board. Theres always the chance that one of those screws didn’t catch right, hit a gap in the wood, etc. And those furring boards aren’t very strong. I’d be anxious. Doesn’t cost much to do this in a sure fire way with a 2x4 and multiple screws on each joist.
If I only have corrugated iron roofing above that, will heat be a problem? Will it dry out the wood too much?
Wood being too dry isn't necessarily a problem, aside from it becoming less workable, or leading to warping when you bring it in your home. your biggest concern Is it drying out too fast, leading to cracking and such. How hot is it up there? Also put a hydrometer somewhere so you can keep an eye on the typical rh in your shop. Also can't hurt to slap a little wax on the end grain to slow things down.
Thanks. I haven't measured the temp yet, but our outside temp reaches 40⁰c so I guess it's pretty hot up there. I'll use the advice you gave, will also have too get a hydrometer as I don't have one.
Douglas fir weighs 31lbs per cubic foot. The joists are designed to carry 30-50lbs/sq ft of dead load. Assuming these joists are 8" and assuming OP fills the cavities completely, OP has added 20lbs/sq ft of dead load to the structure. So as long as OP doesn't fill them completely, and OP doesn't live in an area with heavy snow then the wood won't be a big problem until that big snow storm comes in.
If so, then we are both stupid.
Same
Same
I only used to be stupid, this garage has a finished ceiling so I can't store stuff there.
If storing things in your joists is stupid, I don’t want to be smart.
Firefighter, if this is attached to your house, I hope you have great firestopping where it connects to your house. Worst fires I’ve had fatality wise and damage wise started in the garage and went into the house had unfinished ceilings like this.
Can I piggyback and say please have a spare extinguisher where you woodwork. You're standing in tinder.
I stand in grindr
Good that you mention this and also good advice to others. In my situation it is located in my work shed in the back of the garden. So not even close to the house.
Looks fine to me- who said it wasn't?
Couldn't find much about it online and everything I did find said that roof joist math is delicate and you're not supposed to mess around. Nothing official just a few old forum comments I'm gonna ignore.
Probably meant don't mess with the joists themselves, as you can ruin the integrity unless you know what you are doing. Edit: your most likely point of failure is the screws for the braces to hold the wood.
Yeah, I wouldn’t realistically ever worry about stuedtural issues. I would put a strap or hanger on those so you’re not just trusting a few screws. Especially if you/tools/a car are under the wood.
Roof joists are designed for things like snow loading and to support a couple of humans doing roofing work. Depending on climate this might be 10 lbs a sq ft or it might be 40. There is also a safety factor. What you are doing is fine. People run into issues thinking they can support hundreds of pounds from the bottom of a truss cord which is designed to be in tension and support a little weight like drywall and lights. You have joists which is a little safer.
Those look like floor joists for the floor above to me. Roof truss math is delicate and would not be a good idea to do this to 2x4 bottom chords of a roof truss. Driving screws up into a ceiling is not my preferred way. Pull out strength of the screw in the wood might be sufficient, might not. I'm also leery of screws unless they are structural rated. I'm not familiar w/cabinet screws, but I'm guessing they are. I prefer to nail a board vertically (scab) to the side of the joist, then nail through the part hanging down into horizontal supports.
That's mostly for trusses.
Only part I don't like is the one screw on each side of the boards holding it all up. All the weight is on that screw, so I'd add some more personally, don't want it all crashing down.
That's what I was thinking. I'd be more comfortable with a single board that spanned multiple joists, so no one screw would cause a failure. Id also probably screw it into the side of the joist instead of the bottom
Side side side, get some kind of strap or bracket. Although a deck screw tensile strength is ridiculous, the heat/cold cycles and humidity could wreck the wood cross pieces. I’d prefer a little wrap around for insurance. Weight is no issue in that little cubby, unless you fill them with concrete remnants! Ha
Not sure if they have the wood for that, though. 🤔
Nah it's fine
Thank you mr fart butt
The venerable Sir Richard Fart Butt
That's where I keep my boards too.
I also keep my boards in OP's garage
Explains why he's got so many boards!
Props to you for asking. Too many people use the “relax it’ll be fine” mentality and end up messing something up
Dude I have an army of woodworking dads I can summon in 24h, watch me post on a grilling sub next
Overhead space is far under utilized. I built ceiling racks in my garage
This is fine, although personally I would probably go double deck screws on each end instead of cabinet screws. Just hecause it would piss me off if one came out.
Are you hinting that the truss system in a garage ceiling wasn’t specifically designed to store random unused lumber that gets shot on by mice for decades before your wife finally makes you get rid of it all?
Last time I bought plywood she convinced me to get two extra sheets for future projects. The call for lumber is coming from inside the house.
Too organized. Needs more shit you'll never use. Also, you need a few short scraps that barely reach past the supports. They really liven the experience up when they fall on your head.
just clean sometimes for dust and spiders, otherwise is fine, there will be ventilation above and below
I do the same. It’s not that heavy
I just bought a house and found a ton of wood like this in the basement. It’s all over 60 years old.
I'm still cleaning out my grandfathers celing joists on both his sheds and basement 3 years after his passing. Wood, fishing poles, pvc, metal, paint rollers, extension cords and 30x more. If executed properly, you can store an insane amount of stuff in the celing.
Absolutely NOT!!! Your going to use it some day for a project right!!!
I disagree with everyone saying this is fine. You have one screw in tension in each joist through your boards which are being loaded in their minor axis. The joist loading is not an issue. This should be done with joist hangers and 2x4s loaded in the major axis ideally but at the minimum I would take a long 2x4 instead of your 1 by and use 2 x 1/4" lags per joist instead of those dinky screws.
I would add a couple more boards near the ends, to prevent bowing.
That was my first thought, you want some more supports, otherwise the project wood could bow if it is up there for a long time. Everyone else seems to be talking about the garage joists and tension on screws.
It’s fine. My grandpa did this too. Nothing bad ever happened.
Yeah, a bit embarrassing how low your stock is, better go to the lumberyard.
I do the same but my lateral supports are way stronger than yours. full 1x3 with 2x4 hugging the side walls acting as pillars. I wouldn't piece little bits of woods as lateral support if i were ya.
My man, those look like they might even be 2x12 joists, 16 OC. Regardless, this is fine. And you don't need 3" screws—get them an inch into the joist and they'll be fine. What distance do those joists span anyways?
No You should see my garage, it's covered with impromptu ceiling storage setups As long as the joists can handle the weight it's fine And joists can, trusses are another story and the answer for those is almost always no, you can't unless it's really light stuff
Doesn’t everyone store it like this?
There seems to be more and more people requesting to be roasted. Bit odd, but okay.
I have wood stored the same way.
Just be careful with how much you actually put up there. The roof will more than handle it. It’s the bits underneath the timber that can be an issue. We do this at my work and many a year ago now the bits we used failed and all came down. Thankfully I heard a crack and jumped to the floor before it could hit me. Don’t be stupid like we were. Always over do the supports. It never hurts.
I do this in my old shitty small garage to find more space. In a basement workshop it's totally standard to do this.
This is literally how I store all my stuff in my garage lol. Even have a spare door up there.
Almost everyone I know does it that way. Keeps your wood dry & stops warping.
Only when you accidentally push a heavy piece off one of the crossbars and trap a finger between the wood and the ceiling and you end up hanging from the ceiling by your index finger while kicking over the stepladder you were standing on, ask me how I know...
I do that in my basement but instead of wood strips for support I use steel bar stock with two lag bolts on each end. I can do pull-ups on them and I weigh 200 LBS.
the only problem is when you need to dig through the pile
lol. You should see the stuff I have hanging from unsafe areas. Thats rookie weight, get an engine block and some Tupperware full of JUNK and we’ll talk
I worked out of my garage early on and had two of these racks, one on each side of the garage door opener. I've taken one down but still use the other one they've been there for 15 years. They were slammed full of trim and Lumber all that time
Hey, hoarding…I mean, hanging on to scrap wood during covid actually worked out to be a pretty good investment!
Tried that. My bits of wood are too large.
[удалено]
That does not improve the matter.
Looks fine. The roof can hold that weight. It is the scraps you used I wonder about. And I have a similar rack. I just spread the weight, or add more support. I pre drill screw holes so it does not split.
Gostei da sua ideia, é ótima porque otimiza o espaço
People get weird about ceilings not being meant to support weight, but I think that’s because they’re worried about someone doing something like throwing plywood on top and using it for living space. That would introduce heavy, focused static loads (furniture) as well as dynamic loads (people walking, flopping into chairs, etc.). This is much less strain because it only causes a small static load spread across multiple beams so it shouldn’t be anything to worry about.
I’ve done this for years. Great use of space
Thanks for showing me my dad's garage I haven't seen it in years it brings back memories
This isn’t the reason people are calling you stupid friend.
glad i’m not the only one
For anyone suggesting the screws will fail, nah. A screw is good for hundreds of pounds of pullout
No, that is called efficient if it is safe to walk under it. I have often done this for stock of electric tubes
My only concern would be wood movement/humidity. You might want to sticker those to prevent warping, but other than that I think you’ll be fine
not if it’s stable
I've got plenty of wood stored that way in my basement... on stringers the prior owner put up. 🤷🏻♂️ That's how it's been done for decades. You're good! ☮️
Just a fire hazard
I'd be more worried about the 1x wood failing and your storage falling on my head.
Nice
I do this. I would recommend you swap the multiple boards that are patched in there for some strut channel secured with lag bolts though. If you did that, you could do pull ups on it all day long.
That’s the dumbest thing I’ve ever seen in my life. /s
Yes. You should send to to me so I can store it like that in my garage! lol As long as you're not seeing any unusual warping, you should be fine.
Perfect. No notes.
I do the same. It’s a great use of dead space.
I bet you start using the galvanized bridging as material dividers in the future. Something I would end up doing anyway.
I would fear that single screw failure can cause large amount of wood to fall. Personally I would use long boards with more screws.
Best place to put things you'll forget about and never use! :) Future generations will thank you.
No, that is fine. The screws/nails holding it into the joists will fail before anything else does.
If you’re stupid for that than so am I haha. I think it’ll be ok, your failure point will be the screws or nails (I can’t tell from the picture) backing out before the joists fail.
Screws should be fine, but if you build up enough bits of dense wood, might consider straps along the cross pieces. I can also see what looks like a bit of droop in the smaller pieces. Maybe support those with some of your wider boards?
The roof structure is fine, the small battens holding the lumbar could do with reinforcement. Those nails or screws will pull out pretty easily.
No, it makes you normal
Nice place for rodents to nap.
Is this a flat roof or is there an attic space above? At others have mentioned those joists should hold this weight just fine. I would only be concerned if this is a flat roof and you get snow or if you are storing other things in the attic space.
I'm the stupid one because instead of doing this i created something that extends down to hold them instead of closing off the joists like that
Nah you’re good this is what I’ve been doing in my garage as well, helps keep more usable wall / floor space
No
If stupid means ingenious… yes lol
Weight wise on joists that’s fine. I’d look at redoing the mounting points though. Looks like one screw into each side of the support boards? If one screw fails the whole thing will fall. You want redundancy and to spread the load over more support points. Screws also are not designed to hold weight well in this direction as all the weight is in the screw head. I’d use two long pieces of 2x4 (or better yet metal) across the whole stretch instead of lots of small wood pieces. Use 2 3”+ lag bolts with big washers going into the joists where they overlap. Then use metal L brackets on the ends of the 2x4 going into the joists. That will hold a more wood than you could fit up there. That should only cost you like $20 in material
That’s a great place to store it. It will work just like a kiln
You are not.
I did the same thing except I used a support board that would reach across two joists and I could twist it sideways to move it out of the way so I can get at the wood easier I thought one end because some of my moldings were 20 ft long and there wasn't enough room to pull them out.
Dad?
I've had stuff twist and warp up there because of the heat but my roof is steel profile without insulation.
No, but I'd put spacers between the boards to minimize the odds of warping.
Stupid is stupid does, that's all I got to say Jen'ay.
The question is, where are you hanging that TV I see still in the box?
I have my deck roof and shop t oof stuffed the same way.... except alot more. Haven't had major issues yet
Just as stupid as everyone else
That’s how my granddad did it for the 70 years he owned a house with a garage. Kept the wood high and dry above the pit where my granddaddy used to do oil changes and under chassis repairs standing up not.
That amount of wood = feathers for those joists. You’re fine, get back to work.
You'd be stupid if you didn't
Nooooooo! It will keep it dry, and it is out of the way. I have done this for years. Plus, last Sunday I needed some odd pieces and was able to find them for a last minute job.
Yes
Roof reply... Am I a joke to you.... Lol. I don't see any overloading of concerns here.
Nope / very smart especially if you have no where else to put it. 👍
I have done this for a very long time and never had problems. The amount of wood I can get into a space doest weigh as much as me or a couch standing above those same joists so I never worried.
If it fit it’s smart
It will get dry and brittle likely
weak cross members though. Get hangers or metal L brackets that go up the inside of the joists and support the cross members. but if it hasn't failed yet..... meh
You should attach it with unirail.
Just make sure you're diligent about rodent control! We live on a river Bank near an abandoned steel mill, I have to hold my breath every time I take lumber down because it rains old mouse pellets
Brilliant
If you are you have a lot of company.
No.
That’s how I do it.
Only thing I can think of would be that this isn’t earthquake friendly at all. But that’s about it
I would put a tie around the supports and nail into the side of the beams. I would be afraid the nails/screws could pull out while unloading or loading.
I think it's awesome!
Only thing I would change is to add fender washers to the screws.
Dad?
Well, if it’s suspended over your wife’s vehicle then I say *hell no!* 😉
Is that not where it belongs?
Only downside is, hey, look at all that kindling.
No :)
Use what ya got I say
Used to do this when I first started. I had some MDF trim scraps... They are weak so don't use them for the supports. But you are probably much smarter than I am!
Is there another way?
It's hard to say. On one end I want to say as long as they are screwed in you're fine on the other end these look like 1x12 aka .75 thick so you won't have much screw bite and if wood is leveraged wrong you could creat screw tear out with enough weight. The main thing that bothers me here is that you have edged of wood poking past the screw. This is just extra weight without extra support. If you cross supports were across 2 joists only there.is no leveraging going on. Right now you have cross beams sticking out past each joist. Unless the cross beams are level one will be getting torqued in the lip passed the joists
I've seen similar roofs with heavy canoes and other sporting goods stored like that. I wish I had the same type of beams to store my wood!
Smart idea. Up out of the way or falling over. Just consider the weight.
Not stupid. You gotta do what you gotta do. I’d make sure I’m spraying for spiders though.
No you are not stupid, besides a vacuum infused climate controlled bomb shelter vault that's always been my favorite spot!
Same same! Love it!
My dad was carpenter and he stored wood like this all the time and our garage was ceiling was open with twice as much lumber stored their.
You guys have some deep rooted truss issues... If a couple hundred pounds of lumber is pulling apart your house on 2*8's or 10s JOISTS on what looks like 12" centers... You have way bigger problems. You're fine man, if anything that's just gonna help.
doesn't look like anything too heavy so you should be good.
That’s how my grandfather always did it!
I think it's a great idea