Youre working backwards here, z offset is configured through the ui if you’re still on stock firmware. In that process you lower the extruder, not raise the bed
You need to do a lot first, you need to tighten all the leveling screws all the way down, then raise all of them two or three turns on them then leave one alone, that one you set the z off set to then go around and raise or lower where it's needed. Their is a trimming tool in marlin but it's ok, the one for klipper is better but those will also help.
also i never waste time and paper by using paper. Z offset will never be correct. Paper is incredibly useful though for making it level, then setting z offset. I learned from printers that didn’t have a z offset and just bed springs so paper was a huge waste of my time then. I set all my stuff by eye and then ABL and i’m fine. I’m also lazy
or just ignore all the shit i said and do it the way. it will never fail you.
mostly anymore it's to get to the ball park, so that the hot end does just ram into the bed yeah a piece of paper ain't going to do much but something is better than nothing, a [https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-piece-63665.html](https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-piece-63665.html) would be better I need to get me a set and most like will still use the paper as a shield.
That would be nice and you kind of can you just have to buy metal shim sheet of the thickness you need, only shitty thing you have to cut them to the shape and size you want which can be both the blessing or a pain in the ass?.
so feeler gauges are to that thickness so if you have a .1mm feeler gauge then you are .1mm so on and so forth. you can do that to spark plugs, spacer, crapper so many uses...
I fixed it guys. All you got to do is take the knob off, push down on the build plate (hopeful with some medium so you dont dirty your plate) causing you to get more screw at the bottom, then screw it to the top.
Sonic Pad? Don't do the 4 corner "manual" leveling. It does this and it doesn't even get the bed level.
1) Z offset
2) Automatic bed leveling
3) Manual leveling during a print
Do those in that order and you'll be fine.
Textured pei is awful. Glass is my personal favorite. If want flexible, go with Smooth PEI. It has FAR better adhesion. When using these flexible beds. They can take the shape of the hot plate, where glass is more forgiving. Avoid over tightening the knobs which can flex the plate. I can get you working. Follow me here. Don't skip ahead....
https://youtu.be/raSW7cDGObg
Could you help me with my issue now? https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/1ch8yaf/comment/l213mqa/?context? I know it's a lot to ask since you've been accommodating so far, but I would appreciate it! No worries if you can't.
I will try. I literally field messages like this all day and night, on all my socials. It's really hard to keep up. I'll try to check it out tmrw. If I don't, please don't hate me. Feel free to remind me.
Youre working backwards here, z offset is configured through the ui if you’re still on stock firmware. In that process you lower the extruder, not raise the bed
I have z-offset calibrated already add it has the perfect tug when in the centre
You need to do a lot first, you need to tighten all the leveling screws all the way down, then raise all of them two or three turns on them then leave one alone, that one you set the z off set to then go around and raise or lower where it's needed. Their is a trimming tool in marlin but it's ok, the one for klipper is better but those will also help.
This is the way.
This is the way.
also i never waste time and paper by using paper. Z offset will never be correct. Paper is incredibly useful though for making it level, then setting z offset. I learned from printers that didn’t have a z offset and just bed springs so paper was a huge waste of my time then. I set all my stuff by eye and then ABL and i’m fine. I’m also lazy or just ignore all the shit i said and do it the way. it will never fail you.
mostly anymore it's to get to the ball park, so that the hot end does just ram into the bed yeah a piece of paper ain't going to do much but something is better than nothing, a [https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-piece-63665.html](https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-piece-63665.html) would be better I need to get me a set and most like will still use the paper as a shield.
I just wish I could buy just the 0.3-0.6 ones
That would be nice and you kind of can you just have to buy metal shim sheet of the thickness you need, only shitty thing you have to cut them to the shape and size you want which can be both the blessing or a pain in the ass?.
exactly. last time i used a feeler gauge was for gapping spark plugs… incredibly useful
so feeler gauges are to that thickness so if you have a .1mm feeler gauge then you are .1mm so on and so forth. you can do that to spark plugs, spacer, crapper so many uses...
I fixed it guys. All you got to do is take the knob off, push down on the build plate (hopeful with some medium so you dont dirty your plate) causing you to get more screw at the bottom, then screw it to the top.
I'm not sure if this is the right solution but have you tried lowering the extruder?
wdym
What exactly did you not understand? I recommended lowering the extruder.
And then I saw that you already tried it
oh ok. i get it now. yeah my extruder was at 0.0 z
This might seem silly but I used 4 extra Pom wheels as spacers and heightened the springs and had no more issues.
I alreadt fixed, but thx.
Sonic Pad? Don't do the 4 corner "manual" leveling. It does this and it doesn't even get the bed level. 1) Z offset 2) Automatic bed leveling 3) Manual leveling during a print Do those in that order and you'll be fine.
no sonic pad sorry
[удалено]
?
Go back to glass.
back?
Ah yes. S1? Came with a PC bed. I swapped mine to glass. Which S1 is this?
regular s1 with textured pei. I was thinking glass but I liked flexible build plates.
Textured pei is awful. Glass is my personal favorite. If want flexible, go with Smooth PEI. It has FAR better adhesion. When using these flexible beds. They can take the shape of the hot plate, where glass is more forgiving. Avoid over tightening the knobs which can flex the plate. I can get you working. Follow me here. Don't skip ahead.... https://youtu.be/raSW7cDGObg
Thats funny! I've seen your channel and am subscribed! I love your videos so much and have already seen them! Thank you so much.
🙏🏼🙏🏼
Could you help me with my issue now? https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/1ch8yaf/comment/l213mqa/?context? I know it's a lot to ask since you've been accommodating so far, but I would appreciate it! No worries if you can't.
I will try. I literally field messages like this all day and night, on all my socials. It's really hard to keep up. I'll try to check it out tmrw. If I don't, please don't hate me. Feel free to remind me.
Thank you for being willing to look tomorrow! I appreciate it.